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Super shot re re.. Heating issues 8 years 2 months ago #36842

Thanks JonnyRetro.. I'll look into them

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Super shot re re.. Heating issues 8 years 1 month ago #37128

Hi all,

I'm posting this here as I believe as I'm bringing back a previous issue. I received many recommendations for a 13.5T brushless. Would a 10.5T brushless be ok for the ss?

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Super shot re re.. Heating issues 8 years 1 week ago #37652

I've been running brushless for almost a decade but only once in a Tamiya re-release Advante. I recently got hold of one of these Super Hotshots & know Tamiya make metal gearbox internals. If you can replace anything plastic with metal do it & make sure it's always really well lubricated even if you have to regularly do it. Always check moving parts for signs of becoming stressed or overheated & any lubricant should alert you to the latter. Don't put a high powered combo into a Tamiya & don't use the biggest spec lipo the speed controller can handle. A lightweight Tamiya buggy (for example) is going to be fast with 45A ESC & 2S if geared correctly. To do this you'll need plenty of pinions & spur gears to get this right & for running on different terrain/tracks. A good idea is to have an obvious weak link which is easy to remove & replace. Which has usually been the spur gear which I left plastic when I started running brushless in the Avante. The Super Hotshot is a mid motor configuration so it's not the model I'd pick for running brushless. Simply because it's going to be harder to keep cool compared to a motor on the rear or in a chassis like the Avante. There's heaps of information on the Internet on how to formulate the power output of a brushless RC vehicle. It's really complicated & bests only done it if you're really good at mathematics. As for running a brushless RC vehicle it really helps if you balance the weight on the chassis, i.e. don't have more/less weight on each side. So you will have to add weights to balance the chassis which really helps handling a lot. Don't forget to add the weight of the lipo & it's wise to use the same lipos or your weight balance will be off. Lastly don't push a Tamiya like I push my Team Losi brushless off-roader as the Tamiya will always come off second best & broken.

This post has been made off the top of my head & there could be more I've not mentioned which can be added to this thread. As it's been quite some time since I've had to build & set up anything brushless. If you have any questions post them here or send a message as I'm happy to help & I'll keep subscribed to this thread. I've got a 8ight E 2.0 (amongst other 1/10) with gen2 Tekin combo & 4S lipos. Can go much bigger on the lipo but it messes with handling too much & is plenty fast already. Started with a MUCH smaller brushless combo & lipos. If I'd started with what I have now I'd have most likely destroyed the buggy as it took quite some time getting used to it. Same goes when upgrading, take it easy until you're used to it & don't push it until you know you're able to handle the extra power.
My other car is a Tamiya - bumper sticker on my van
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