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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30645
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Multiple parcels today - re-re SRB parts, bag of fine walnut shell, & a cheapy blasting cabinet to hurl it at the pot metal parts (yes I've been convinced, at least of it being worth trying "soft" media at low pressure) ... it looks to be indistinguishable from ones costing twice as much. I will probably dismantle it & seal all the joints up as some of them haven't been done that well, but otherwise I just have to fix the board & some wooden blocks down to stop it moving about, wait for an air inlet adaptor ("euro" F on my compressor hose, 1/4" BSP F on the cabinet - honestly, I didn't realise there were so many variations of air fittings - I thought everything was a Schrader valve
 ), then I can plug in an old hoover & give it a try  My only moan so far is the manual, which seems to be larger irrelevant, incomplete & badly translated ... "movable leaf" obviously means hinge, but "suiking forer"?  
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30648
My guess: "Striking lever" ?? Signature now gets correct formatting if you edit it in your Profile. Use normal BBcode if you want.
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30650
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Nice cabinet, The coconut "powder" is very efficient to polish metal parts |
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30651
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"Swivel Clamp"? |
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30657
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 To clean up my cartridges, we had coconut no french nut "powder" with a smelt ang gluing oïl. All in a vibrating bowl. |
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30672
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I think those would result in what's referred to as "excessive peening"  |
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58034 Super Champ light resto 9 years 7 months ago #30708
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Started on the bodywork - the roof from the re-re Buggy Champ driver sprue yielded some bar the same diameter as the missing bit of roof rail, that & the broken left side are all held together with M3 studding & epoxy glue ... shaping at the bottom end is a combination of a fiddly bit of styrene field to shape & epoxy putty.
At the back end I tidied up the "cuts" and made a styrene sandwich, then filled with epoxy putty - there's still a lot of sanding to do there, but when I'm done it should look original, no-one's going to notice it's 0.5mm longer 
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