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Hi,
I apologise for the late response; thank you all of you for your advice. It's greatly appreciated. I did actually manage to remove the grub screws from one side of the suspension so that the torsion bar moved freely and the brass ferrule was uninhibited by its grub screw. However, I can't seem to get the ferrule free from its housing. I've now liberally sprayed both sides with WD40 and will leave it overnight to hopefully dislodge or degrease any obstruction. Thank you once again. |
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You can also use a termix to heat the threadlock, or drill the screw and clean the passage
The following user(s) Liked this: Sam
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Thanks Stingray. I'm not sure what Termix is but I'll Google it to find out. I've managed to get the grub screws out from one side, but the other is proving a headache. I've got my Dremel and some metal bits, but I'm not really that confident in attempting to drill the screws out as I worry about damaging the housing thread. However, if I can't remove them over the weekend once they've had a good chance to soak in WD40, I'll have to bite the bullet and get the drill out.
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The termix is a tool like hairdryer but 600°C
The following user(s) Liked this: Sam
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I've finally decided to drill out the grub screws after reaching intolerable levels of frustration with a can of WD40 and a torx wrench lol.I managed to get a reasonably decent grip and tentatively applied some pressure but the wrench eventually slipped and consequently stripped the inside of the head.
I bought some metal drill bits today (1.5mm & 2mm) and just wanted to ask some advice on this process. I'm really concerned that I'll damage the housing threads when attempting to remove the screws. Is the idea to drill straight through the bottom of the grub screw, or do I just use the drill bit to thin out the thickness of the screw so it's easier to remove? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you. |
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I did that last july. For a 3mm screw, I drilled with 2,5mm and removed the rest of filler by hand.
The following user(s) Liked this: Sam
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Yes fingers crossed.
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The idea is to remove as much of the offending fastener without damaging the thread in the hole it's in - as Stingray said 2.5mm is the right size for M3 thrreads, that should leave effectively a "spring" in the thread that you can winkle out with a dental pick or similar (or you might have to chase it out with an M3 thread cutting tap).
If you haven't got your brass ferrule out yet, assuming nothing should be holding it in & the area is clean, it might be that the brass could have deformed from the pressure of the grubscrew, and that burr is holding it in. You should be able to drift it out with a small punch - just support the area so you don't risk breaking the arm.
The following user(s) Liked this: Sam
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Thank you Jonny, that's a great help. I'll be certain to implement all the cautionary tips you advise. With regard to the ferrule, that's still being stubborn and refusing to budge. There doesn't appear to be anything obstructing the ferrule, so your suspicion that it might be deformed makes perfect sense. I really appreciate it. Thank you.
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