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My grand mother had a 2cv6 1974 with square front lights. And the bumper weren't metalic. They were really flat light grey. But the charleston has chromed bumperd with a middle rubber band.

stingray-63 wrote:

My grand mother had a 2cv6 1974 with square front lights. And the bumper weren't metalic. They were really flat light grey. But the charleston has chromed bumperd with a middle rubber band.

I was following the Tamiya Charleston instructions on this point, but TBH I haven't painted it correctly for any 2CV model I'm aware of

 

Scuffed up the points where the steel part of the magnetic body mounts will be bonded on:






Jumping way ahead here, it's already had 6 (I think) coats of my paler grey (8ml 6325-00 White, 8 drops 6325-01 Black, 2ml 6324-00 Reducer), the window masks peeled, the protective outer film removed from the roof area, and the rear window masked on the outside, in preparation for dulling the roof down (small squirt 6324-00 Reducer, bigger squirt 6324-02 Matte Clear, mixed right in the airbrush cup):




I had the bright idea of doing a final "wet" coat to even out the result, it dried pretty much gloss Even pulling way back with another coat has left it more satin than I would have liked, more of a cheap vinyl look than a woven roof.






 

Tbh, the vinyle roof was very flat but my reminds are from 80's and early 90's . IMO , the roof is really flat and has a white patina from the sun

IDK how obvious it is, but the light grey & dark grey colours I mixed from Pro-Line paints have separated into 4 if not 5 layers ... I'm not saying it's a problem, just weird.
The "Aluminum" appears to be 95+% carrier.
 



Scanned & cut out all the decals, there's quite a lot of unwanted Charleston edition left over ...






Magnets bonded on with "5 minute" epoxy, I will attempt to soften the front & stiffen the rear a little  

She looks nice

When I reviewed the Pro-Line paints I rated them at 4 out of 6, and I seriously considered going as low as a 3 our of 6, but I think I'm going to have to revisit that

It's not just that that the one of the magnets just pulled off all the paint underneath it, from a keyed surface - when Tamiya PS and airbrushed PC paints are fine to do this on, even on unkeyed, unwashed polycarbonate - it's the number of chips & scratches from the minimal, careful handling it had while I lined it up on the chassis, fitted the decals and chrome bits.

I have the lids off the jars of remaining light grey & dark grey in the hope that enough volatiles will evaporate that I can repair the damage with a couple of coats brushed on - and add some self adhesive vinyl to the magnets and posts so the attraction isn't quite as strong, to stop it happening again.

Add in the weird "Aluminum" paint  & it's a definite 3 (barely adequate), maybe even a 2 (very limited use/value).    

Oh that sucks. I had a same problem with the m3 e30 I painted with automotive white. It ended like sparckles

That was a bugger!

On my Bronco body I first added a layer of duct tape and then bonded magnets to that.
Tape on the body has never let go, but tape to magnet on the other hand several times.

I see - combined load spreading & a deliberate weak/ failure point