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That's pitty, because a drift car is far better on a good surface. Isn't there a parking lot under a flat with polished concrete? Or something like that? What car are you making for drifting now?

Gumpie22B wrote:

That's pitty, because a drift car is far better on a good surface. Isn't there a parking lot under a flat with polished concrete? Or something like that? What car are you making for drifting now?

My garage is smooth concrete and I use that occasionally. Truth is that I am so terrible at drifting that it probably doesn't matter. Maybe the new car will help with that. It is a Fijon FJ9. I'm planning to put a nice Tamiya body on it.

I didn't know that car but Google learns me it's tha same as a Bulldog chassis. I've never seen or tested one but i think it's a capable chassis. Do you drive 50/50, CS or RWD?

Setup and tires are extreme important for drifting. Every brand of tires has many types. On the chassis camber, toe open or toe in, ackermann, KPI, hardness of the springs, thickness of the damper oil, position of the dampers, ... It all makes a huge difference. I suggest to start from the basic settings of the manual. Change something and look what it does when drifting. Always change one thing at the time and test how it feels. Even turning the springs one round harder/softer is noticable if you ared used with the car.

Tips for drifting: first make rounds around one cone. Try to keep the same distance and speed. Try to keep the front wheels at the same angle. If you got that right, make 8-figures around two cones. This way you have to make a transition from left to right and vice versa. If the 8 is a succes, build a simple track and try to follow good lines.

If you have to be rude to get the car in a drift, the tires and/or shocks are too soft. Drifting is about smoothness and style. Always be gentle with steering and gas and don't go too fast. A sensored brusless combo helps to have good control on the throttle. A 10.5T or 13T motor is good. Succes, you'll enjoy it

Thanks for all the detailed tips. This is a countersteer chassis with 1.35:1 on the rear axle. Rear is a locked spool, front is a one-way. Double wishbone in back, MacPherson strut in front. I've put a 10.5T Hobbywing sensored brushless system in it. Now just trying to find a suitable body. The Tamiya Nissan GT-R that I bought doesn't fit.

The chassis and electronics are perfect. But indeed, not easy to find a fitting body. Front of the chassis seems very high.

1.35 is easy to learn. I run 1.64, 1.80 and 2.00 on my chassis. The rear end realy wants to go sideways. But i must admit i went in small steps from low to high cs.