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Hi everyone...
i planned for my kids vacation to build a Lunchbox in black eddition with my daughter (with my son, it will be the mini one) I will report the build with pics. In the meantime, i'm thinking about the paint. I planned for 2 lexan bodys from Parma, and will keep the original body for the shelf. The original body comes in black. The finish let me think it needs some paint to be perfect, but the plan is to do the hard body in box art... Question to the specialists : - Primer or not? - Black metal paint for plastic (TS-40) should arrive today by the postman. Would direct application on the body work? - Clear coat (TS-13) - after stickers application? Thanks in advance for your hints... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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Last edit: by silvertriple.
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You can take a body straight out of the box & blow the paint straight over it in one coat, and it'll look ok ... from a distance, for a while.
Generally the more time you take over it, the better the finish will be, at bare minimum you should sort any moulding issues (mostly around the sunroof aperture) & wash it. Better still is to lightly key the surface with 1200 (or, better e.g. 1500) grit wet & dry paper. Primer, only worth IMO it if you're going to smooth it out after it's cured (1500 or 2000 grit paper). You've also got the issue of having to cover over a lighter colour primer when it was black to start with, which really feels like extra work for a brand new body. Clear before or after decals is an ages-old philosophical debate ... well, not really but there's no real answer. I've cleared over decals & while it works, it doesn't look quite "scale" if you know what I mean. On something like a Sand Scorcher (or pretty much any racer) the prototype would have been sponsor decals & numbers over paint so a fully cleared finish looks subtly wrong, but with something like the Lunchbox or Midnight Pumpkin where one can imagine a 1:1 version would have sprayed on or even airbrushed art, cleared over decals work. That said, Tamiya decals are pretty shiny to start with. IMO clearcoating is only worth it if you're going to bother rubbing out after, it's not some magic that will make an orange peel colour coat mirror smooth without further work. I think it depends on what your expectations are - if you're going to hate seeing it on the shelf because you know you should have doen more, then don't half-badword it Just to muddy the waters, there is a school of thougt that says you shouldn't paint these boxart colour moulded bodies at all, "just" polish them instead |
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Yeahh nice activity for your children.
where didbyou find the parma bodies? I would like to find another one for a runner.
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Flo, Kamtec in UK makes reproduction of the Parma body in both lexan and abs.
But the real Parma looks so much better. I still have a unpainted Parma for my Lunchbox, among other bodies I need to paint some day. |
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I already have a parma, but it is too nice to be on a runner.
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Thanks for the feedback... Not sure what I'll do for the paint, still undecided yet. Maybe I will focus on the lexan bodies first
I'm not sure it is Parma or Parma repro bodies I got. They were delivered from Kamtec uk this morning (2 of thems), One will be for my daughter (fluorescent pink, she said) and the second one will be for me (not sure how I paint this one, by the way).. I've not really moved forward on the Lunchbox, as I focused today on the lunchbox mini with my son. The big one is planed for next week-end... And if you are lucky, there will be another incoming thread today or tomorrow about the Mini lunchbox (I can't run it, the kids stole my TX and the mini Lunchbox with it)... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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Yes another thread.
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After a day of work, I decided to start the Lunchbox build with my daughter. There will be 3 bodies for this Lunchbox.
In other words, I have all the parts together in the plate we are used with my kids to build our kits or our legos. It makes the thing less enjoyable, as sometimes, you search for quite a long time before you find the right one... The servo is then mounted on the chassis, and the body mounts as well And then ESC, RX are mounted in the chassis as well, before working out the gearbox (highly similar to the one of the Hornet, not really surprising) The way the motor is fixed to the gearbox is slightly different than for the Hornet. Another key difference is the Wheelie bar, but I guess it will be required with the big wheels... We called it a day after attaching the gearbox to the chassis Tomorrow is day off for me, so I'm likely to pursue the activity with my daughter tomorrow... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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This morning, it was paintjob for one of the bodies. This will be the one for my daughter.
Triming and setting of the position. For the position, I based it on the hard body in the kit, as the chassis is not finished yet I did use tape for the masking as liquid mask would have taken too much time to have this finished in the morning... My daughter wanted fluorescent pink, she will have flurorescent pink... In anycase, it will be flashy (used the whole pink fluo bomb, finished half of a white bomb and half of silver one for the backing...)! Then I applied black for the bumpers and small details. The a bit or Orange fluo for the blinkers, and some translucent red for the rear lights. Front lights are without paint (leds are planned for front and rear) and windows have been smoked (that will avoid my daugther to buy a Barbie to put it in the car as she don't have anymore one :-D) This afternoon, the program is the chassis... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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