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On to actual building - page 3, steering rods/servo saver & front arms:
Page 4 - rest of the front end: I think ther must be a "mk.1" and "mk.2" LWB Willy - the two Willys I have both have some differences to the manual - firstly wjere the "pipe holders" fasten on to the front strut tops (J6): in the manual the screws go in to blind holes from underneath; but on my cars the screws go through the strut tops & into threaded holes in the holders: I can't do page 5 (yet) due to not having the switch plate Page 6 - attaching motor, motor base & diff gear case. More differences here, the manual calls for M4 screws going in the underside of the ally plates & being held on the chassis by nuts; on my cars, M3 screws go in from the top of the chassis into tapped holes in the motor base plates: Page 7 - diff case & rear arms: |
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Yes the manual you got is for the Mk.1 SWB hence the differences. the LWB manual you can find at Tamiyabase.com
*badword* is that Willy shinny. Are those fasteners stainless and I saw the brass bearings, no ballbearing upgrade? did you use the small brass tube h8 on the steering rod and chassis tub |
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Last edit: by waterbok.
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I probably should have noticed the round holes in the Arm Stays |
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If possible, email me jpg scans (150 dpi) of that SWB Willy manual, and I will put it up here. Signature now gets correct formatting if you edit it in your Profile. Use normal BBcode if you want.
www.tamiyabase.com was formatted automatically. |
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I think the TamiyaClub.com watermarks might be a problem |
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Correct, that would be a problem Signature now gets correct formatting if you edit it in your Profile. Use normal BBcode if you want.
www.tamiyabase.com was formatted automatically. |
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Just about finished the building ... step by step photos went out the window as the build order is completely different with the LWB manual (and makes a lot more sense in some ways) ... pinion is not ideal but is better than the "correct" one I had ...
Cat was determined to "investigate" the small parts: I'm missing one of the top hat washers from the bottom of one of the rear shocks, there's no electrics in there, and the mechanism box lid could stand some repairs, but for now, apart from possibly a bit of lettering on the body, I'm going to call this "done" |
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