Hi all,
as you can see in my user introduction, Holiday Buggy is my main topic. I have me next restauration pcs in front of me and have two topics to ask: Roll bar disassembly I disassembled the chassis but I was not able to detach the roll bar without concerns to damage the hooks. Tried several forceps and also support by heat gun. But not success. Is there kind of trick to get the roll bar out without destroying the hooks of it? Next topic: Yellowing/Discoloration I noticed that the grey plastic parts sometimes are really discolorated. During some research on LEGO Forums oder Commodore C64 Forums I found several posting using hydrogene peroxide (3% - 12%) + UV Light or bleach gel of hair styling to get the yellowish color out of the parts. Anybody tried that here already on Buggy parts? Last point: Polyethylene Body. After several tries on an scrap body I stopped to try to get the surface somehow polished. But what I found out: You get it really shiny if you rub it with oil. Probably because Polyethylene is a Polyolefine. So, I cleaned the surface from stickers (using heat gun) then took some damper oil and coated the overall body. Taking the residual oil off with a soft tissue brings additional shine. That is also helpfull if you cleaned a body but yould see the remaining shapes of older removed stickers. After treatment with oil, I was able to get rid of those marks. see the to pics of a rear fender. You do not feel it as an oily surface. Unfortunatley a slight difference in color still visible to to the block effect of the sticker to UV Light. And of cause I do not know the long time effect of the oil coat. But on a onebody I have some cracks and need to repairs some small areas. Which color code fits the best to the original body color? I not attend to use it for the full body, only at some smaller spots. Thanks Harry |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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Roll bars - I really don't remember having any issues with these on multiple Holiday Buggies (and Sand Rovers, which have the same sort of clip arrangement underneath) - I think I just pulled from the top & used a thumb to deflect one of the hooks on the underside.
Yellowing - yes, I've used Peroxideon grey bumpers, white wheels & other yellowed parts (see www.tamiyabase....h-peroxide ). My Holiday buggy bodies were both quite grazed, I started with a coarse grit wet & dry paper & worked up to fine, then primed & painted. I wouldn't do it that way again, I'd probably try machine polishing & finishing by hand with Novus scratch remover or similar. I don't know about the oil, it depends which sort I guess ... a pure mineral oil (Castrol R etc) or vegetable oil I'd hope would not cause issues, anything else I guess you have to try & then check back in 20-30 years - but the body was used to start with, who knows what else has been used on it in the past? |
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Unbelievable... I pulled like a bear and could not get them out. Obviously I still get not the right technique. But I will try again,
Thanks for the link regarding hydrogene peroxide. Did you tested that also on grey parts from Holiday Buggy or Sand Rover? I know that it is working on white parts. If you have painted Holiday Buggy Bodies, what kind of color (code/name) did you use to match the original color? |
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Hi RLine, I have restored and painted mine HB Manotas's so there you can see the end result after painting it in TS15. It looks pretty close to the original body color ! Manotas Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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Finally made it and got our the roll bars just by hand. So it was technique.
Before I start the chassis works I would like to know if somebody knows the material. I assume ABS, PC or PC-ABS blend. Anybody who can confirm which one? Thx harry |
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Last edit: by RLine.
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ABS in my mind
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From the way it breaks, wears and responds to solvents & glues I would say ABS too
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On hardbodies, you can use scratch remover and wax for real cars.
I don't think oil is the best for the long run.. And wax is also handy for the clear bodies (polycarbonate), it will remove scratches and make it shiny. A tip I picked up from Hemistorm on Youtube. He is brilliant with spray paints (not vintage content, but worth a watch if you like tips on how to paint rc bodies.) |
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Hi,
yesterday I started some work on my chassis. On one of my chassis the per-owner let run the gear shafts too hot. Caused by that the shaft melted away the shaft bearing. Unfortunately the per-owner tried several times to fix it with zero second glue. So at first I removed all the old glue. Then I created kind of casting mold using 2K silicone from dentistry. The advantage of that silicone: It cures in few minutes, keeps his shape and sticks to nothing else than to other silicone. With that method I copied the shape from a chassis without damage at that area. Then placed the casting mold piece onto the damaged one and filled the gap with black colored 2K resin with very low viscosity. Because I need to repair some other holes and also the other side of the shaft I did not start the final finish after the repair. But for the first attempt it looks not too bad. Starting point (after old glue removal): Cast mold of good chassis: Applied to damaged chassis: |
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Last edit: by RLine.
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