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TOPIC: Blakbird's 959 Restore

Blakbird's 959 Restore 3 days 7 hours ago #59826

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Lars had an excellent 959 restoration topic and now Manotas has one too, so I guess I should jump on the bandwagon. The difference is that both of those guys have talent but I am in way over my head. I've had this 959 on my shelf for over two years, afraid to do anything with it.




The chassis is in acceptable condition and in fact is quite driveable (despite the presence of a couple of repaired parts). The body, as expected, is quite trashed. It has a bunch of broken holes in the front corners and that paint was never very good to begin with. My plan for this car has changed over time. I originally planned a full restore, but a number of things is going to make that next to impossible. My kit is missing the drivers, the headlight buckets, and almost all of the exterior body parts. I did manage to buy a new C parts tree (for $100) to replace the repaired suspension parts, but I haven't had any luck finding the other parts. My other problem is that I don't do shelf queens. All my cars are runners. Even if by some miracle I was able to fully restore this, I really couldn't drive it because it would just be too valuable and irreplaceable. With that in mind, I've come up with a Plan B. I will restore my 58059 to the maximum extent possible and then sell it to some worthy enthusiast. For my runner, I will mount a TBG body with MCI stickers to an MF-01X chassis. It will look just like a 58059 except I will have no hesitation driving it.

I started by tearing the whole thing down to see what I had. This picture shows all the parts after ultrasonic cleaning and scrubbing. The tub in background contains the tires soaking in glycerin.


Now let's talk about the help needed. I was not into RC as a kid and I haven't really done any old restorations, so I don't know anything about mechanical speed controllers. The MSC shown below works fine, but it looks pretty rough. What's the best way to clean it and where do I find "switch lubricant"? The gray wire you see in the photo wasn't connected to anything. What is it for? This model has no room for a receiver battery so it must use a BEC system.


My resistor was working but it is clearly broken. Is there something unique about this resistor or can I use any old resistor from another model?


Lars mentioned the "almost" impossibility of removing the BR1 C clips. From what I can tell, he should have said "completely" impossible. I have broken countless blades and used up all my curse words trying to get them out to no avail. Is there any way to do this? Without removing them I can't replace the bearings.


This picture shows the repair of one of the front steering knuckles. It is crude, but effective. Luckily I was able to source a brand new C parts tree so all C parts will be replaced with new.


Then there are the shocks. It appears that the rod end seals are swaged into the cylinder. Is there any way to replace them? I destroyed two of the SD8 oil seals removing them which means I need to try to replace them somehow. They are not o-rings, they appear to be fiber washers. Any ideas? Finally, there was no way to remove the vinyl tubing intact because it was hard as a rock so I had to cut it off. Is there anything special about it or can I just use fuel tubing to replace it?


Finally, I would really like to put an interior in my MF-01X reproduction, but I don't have the H, J, or K parts trees. I have the TBG interior, but there are no heads. 1/10 Tamiya heads are too big. Are there any 3D printed options for the heads or light buckets? I'm not sure what else to try.

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Blakbird's 959 Restore 3 days 5 hours ago #59827

Don't touch it and send me all blackbird I should have the missing parts and keep care about it. Slow runs and The place on my sleeping desk. :P

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Blakbird's 959 Restore 3 days 5 hours ago #59828

Your body is still plenty better than the one I have on mine lol.
Mine is split in all corners, dents and is heavly used.

The grey wire from the MSC is for the headlight bulb kit.

Regarding the shock tubes, they are vinyl ones and fuel lines won't tackle shock fluid over time I've heard.
The orginal tubes is next to impossible to find and I think that sort of tubes was only used on the 959/Celica chassis.

There is a FB group for that chassis and some of the members have remade some of the parts, including those knuckles in cast resin, I have those on my Celica.

For grease for the MSC I think you can use battery terminal grease (dielectric grease) from your local car part supplier.
I have not tried as I still have MSC grease, but I'm running low on that.

I have not tried it, but I think the MSC can take a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner without getting damage, I have not yet got one so I can't try myself.

The headlight buckets has also been available at that FB site, have also seen them on ebay from time to time.
I'm not sure, but you can take a look at Shapeways to see if there is anybody offering that, but cost from Shapeways is not cheap anymore.

Regarding driver heads, there must be some 1:12 cars out there you can use the the heads from.
Problem is to find something that looks similar to the half helmet these drivers are using if you are going for the period look.

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Last edit: by caprinut.

Blakbird's 959 Restore 2 days 20 hours ago #59831

blakbird wrote: ... 1/10 Tamiya heads are too big. Are there any 3D printed options for the heads or light buckets? I'm not sure what else to try.


Can't help you with most of that, but I did think I had an angle on the heads - Tamiya's 1:12 rider figures, and broke the seals on my kits to look ...

The "Straight Run Rider" and "Starting Rider" have one full face helmet/head each, the "Racing Rider" has two different varieties of full face. I have one spare one, but again it's a full face helmet :(

I know the "Street Rider" and whatever they call the one that comes with the Virago kit both have bertie bombshells, but that would be an expensive way to do it, and neither are looking down at the map.



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Blakbird's 959 Restore 2 days 18 hours ago #59835

I have two Toyotas and one Porsche. Only one Toyota has an acceptable body. In a box of spares for this model I must have 5 broken swivels. They seem a weak point. If you get stuck for chassis parts I may be able to help. Saying that, the parts I have are well used!

Sean
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Blakbird's 959 Restore 2 days 13 hours ago #59839

Regarding the MSC resistor, there is loads of vehicles that use the ribbed 3 prong one :
tamiyabase.com/...Itemid=775

Later cars have smooth resistors without those ribs, I guess they are the same dimensions.
I'll have a look in my parts bin and in my vehicles to see if I can measure both types.

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Blakbird's 959 Restore 2 days 4 hours ago #59851

the c rings are easy to remove u need a thick needle
lift up one side of the c ring right then turn the shaft it will go up the needle on the shaft and out of the grove
with the msc if it needs a clean use electric circuit board cleaner with tooth brush the terminals if they need more
take it apart then use steel wool gently ok not the one with the soap in it
the very light one steel wool

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Last edit: by spannerman3.

Blakbird's 959 Restore 2 days 1 hour ago #59854

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caprinut wrote: Your body is still plenty better than the one I have on mine lol.
The grey wire from the MSC is for the headlight bulb kit.

Mystery solved! Thanks for that.

caprinut wrote: Regarding the shock tubes, they are vinyl ones and fuel lines won't tackle shock fluid over time I've heard.
The orginal tubes is next to impossible to find and I think that sort of tubes was only used on the 959/Celica chassis.

I ordered a couple of different sizes and styles of tubing from an industrial supply store. We'll see if they are close enough that I can make my own. I also bought some sheet gasket material and some circular punches to try to make my own seals.

caprinut wrote: There is a FB group for that chassis and some of the members have remade some of the parts, including those knuckles in cast resin, I have those on my Celica The headlight buckets has also been available at that FB site, have also seen them on ebay from time to time.

I was able to find the parts you are talking about on eBay, but I don't see anything for the light buckets.

Jonny Retro wrote: Can't help you with most of that, but I did think I had an angle on the heads - Tamiya's 1:12 rider figures, and broke the seals on my kits to look ...

The "Straight Run Rider" and "Starting Rider" have one full face helmet/head each, the "Racing Rider" has two different varieties of full face. I have one spare one, but again it's a full face helmet :(

I know the "Street Rider" and whatever they call the one that comes with the Virago kit both have bertie bombshells, but that would be an expensive way to do it, and neither are looking down at the map.

I don't know anything about these heads but I will definitely look into them. Are they available?

caprinut wrote: Regarding the MSC resistor, there is loads of vehicles that use the ribbed 3 prong one :
tamiyabase.com/...Itemid=775

Later cars have smooth resistors without those ribs, I guess they are the same dimensions.
I'll have a look in my parts bin and in my vehicles to see if I can measure both types.

I have a couple of ribbed resistors from other models, but the pins don't match. Most Tamiya resistors seem to have those tiny spade connectors, but the 959 resistor has the much wider connectors.

spannerman3 wrote: the c rings are easy to remove u need a thick needle
lift up one side of the c ring right then turn the shaft it will go up the needle on the shaft and out of the grove

Tried that. The problem is that you can't do the bold part because there is no way to get under or inside the ring. No access.

Thanks for all the advice so far, everyone! I'm making progress on re-assembly already.

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Blakbird's 959 Restore 1 day 13 hours ago #59867

blakbird wrote: I ordered a couple of different sizes and styles of tubing from an industrial supply store. We'll see if they are close enough that I can make my own. I also bought some sheet gasket material and some circular punches to try to make my own seals.


If you find something that work, can you sell me some of that tube so I can do mine?

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Blakbird's 959 Restore 1 day 1 hour ago #59879

blakbird use a 3 or 2 inch nail then sharpen it up like a needle
then put it in the middle where the c-ring meets together use the needle as a wedge the c-ring then pop out of the grove and start going upwards onto the shaft
ones the c ring end goes out of the grove at the start of the c-ring keeping the needle to 15mm degrees high
then turn the shaft around the c ring will then go out and up the shaft and out of the grove ones u got it out of the grove then just push the shaft out the c ring will pop off the end
dont use a needle for cotton its to thin

when you first put the needle in place to wedge it its 90 degrees flat on the bottom to the c ring when you start turning it around the needle should be like 70 degrees and 15mm high

i have a question
i have a sanwa m8 radio i but the battery cover for the bottom it turns up with a hole going in to the battery battery bay
what 1 side tape do u use to cover the hole thanks

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Last edit: by spannerman3.
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