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Hummer H1 6x6x4 9 years 3 months ago #32479

Hi People,

First off all i start with a confession, i love the H1 Hummer, i've been building it in many forms, static 1/35 scale, the very beautifull Tamiya RC version and everything in between, i even have a real grill hanging in my mancave.
In normal live i drive a Jeep Wrangler but a H1 is my ultimate dream, can't afford one but you can dream can't you?
Till then i make models and here's one of them, it came to be to show my trial friends that a good scaler which performs on the trials does not have to cost a arm and a leg if you don't mind some work.
The extra being that it looks good doing it ;)

First the chassis, i give a short parts rundown, building your own trialchassis can be tricky and maybe it's usefull to make a seperate 'howto' if there any interest here into scaling, i think it's worth a special topic making clear the things you have to consider building it from scratch, it took me atleast 5 tries before i was on the right track.

The chassis is a 6x6 with locked Tamiya CR01 axles, for the locking i use hot glue, using this method there's always a way back, some people lock the diff with a extra gear, don't do that specially when you go for a strong crawler motor like a 55t, you put all the power on just one point in the diff resulting in breakdowns.





I have made several 6x6 and 8x8 trucks, steering is a personal choice, i've made 8x8's with steering frontaxles which have a
real good scalelook but a enormous steeringradious.
For really having a good drive i make the rear axle steer, the trials i drive is mainly going up and down with narrow curves,
i need a small turningradius.
I will explain more in a specified topic on making this kind of chassis, but putting a servo on the rear axle just as on the
front one is the easy way, i use Spektrum trnamitters/receivers, so it's easy to slave the rear servo to the front one.
With Spektrum gear you can also regulate the output, so you can give the rear servo less steering, if you let the both steer
at 100% the turn will be to sharp losing grip as a result.

The Tamiyafans will recognize the shocks which are good for driving these kind of cars in this weightclass.
The tranny is a Axial one, the driveshafts are Junfac and the small one between the axles is a shortened CC01 shaft.
As you can see the rear axles are connected, it's a thing i found out during my earlier builds, if you look at the axles and
the shocks you could see a kind of a triangle, the result is that when the middle axle get pushed up driving offroad the last
axle get pushed down, i outrun many 4x4's Axials and other known trialcars with this setup.
The aluminium profiles used are industry spec, look for the thoughest alu you can find!
The look isn't spectaculair but does it perform? badword yeah, it will surprise you!

So enough about the chassis, the body is up next and it's the H1, not the Chevy Silverado fakes which would follow later,
(H2 & H3) no hairdressers found in the H1 ;)
I could have opted the Tamiya version, but i could not bring myself to cutting up that beautifull body, so i went for the
Tonka toy bodies, you can pick them up for a few euro's on any selling site, look for the ones with died electronics.
The electronics maybe poor, the body isn't, the detail and scaleappearance is above average, i gues this body was ment
for greater things which never happened.
For less then 30 euro's this was brought by the mailman:



After stripping:



I was looking for a sort off pickup version but after i made the body longer the look wasn't right, it was stretched to far
out so i did a 'best of 2 worlds' kind off thing, with a piece of tarp to give it a more solid look.

Cutting it up:



Using the second body and some Evergreen to make it longer, using the good old puch and die set for the missing rivets:



Meanwhile working on the tarp, to change the structure dab on some Mr.Surfacer from Gunze Sanyo, use a old stiff brush for it
and keep on tabbing while it dries, when it gets sticky you're done:





After it dried sand the sharp edges down and you have a different structure, making it stand out from the rest of the body:



The reardeck nearing completion:



Some extra detailling here and there:



The look i was out to get:



Time to paint, i do this kind of bodies in the same proven way, start out with a clear plastic primer, make sure
you have a good one, it may be a bit expensive but you don't need much, one closed thin layer is enough, followed by the
grey primer like Tamiya's version which is very good, after that satin black, for my kind of painting this is ment as a
pre-shade and a sealer, for these size of bodies i have used rattlecans untill the satin black, after this stage i switch
to the airbrush.






I wanted a used Arizona sun bleeched paintscheme in simple earthcolors, easy on the eyes and the look of a repainted old US
Army Hummer, to get this done in a convincing way the black pre-shade is very important, now you can make it work for you.
The sunbleeched parts will be the lightest shade, the shadowparts the most dark, if you need to find out which is what put a
spotlight over the body, everything light must be lighter with the paint, make a exeption for airintakes and fuelfiller spots.
It will add more live to your body but anyway, it's your world, do what you like, your personal touch and vision will make
the model stand out, maybe not to everybody's taste but once again, it's your world.
Staying true to what you like will be very satisfying and maybe not liked by everyone it will be respected:



Working in thin layers one step at the time the body comes alive:



If i am satisfied i seal the effects up with a acrylic satin clear layer to preserve the effects achieved untill now.
All paint used are acrylic to this point, now i switch to oils, it's very important to plan that moment carefully, oils over
acryl is no problem, the other way around won't work.



Painting the details i use the normal enamel modelpaint, i use Model Master but Humbroll, Revell and other brands will do
also, for the creases and panellines i thin down some oilpaint, 10 parts thinner 1 part paint, use only good paint like
Winsor & Newton, it will not shift if thinned down and keep it's color.
This paint i put on with a sharp pointed brush size 0 or 1, because of the layer clear it will run easily in the lines like
around the doors, to many? Dry the brush with a clean cloth, put the point back in the excess paint and it will return back
in the brush, in a seperate topic i will explain more about paint and what you can do with it but one tip i'd like to give
you now, don't use black but a dark version of the basecolor, with black you are at the end of the spectrum and more than
often it will turn out being to harsh:



In the same way some details for the rear:



Th last fase is drybrushing, the oldest modelling trick there is, take some good oilpaint like W&N in a lighter shade then
the basecolor, in this case i opted for a light sandcolor, thin a littlebit paint down to the thickness of milk, get a wide
soft clean brush and a clesn lintfree cloth, now load the paint in the brush and brush it on the cloth untill you think no
paint comes from the brush.
if you gently brush over higher raised things like the doorhandles you will see a 'lighting up' effect, this will give a nice
faded dusty look, don't overdo it, specially the first time it will give you a rewarding feeling and it's hard to stop in
time, overdo it and it will look fake, stop in time and it will add to the realism.
But once again, here's were your personal taste is important, it's your model, does it make you feel good then it's okay!
Never done this? Give yourself the time to master it, try it first on rough surfaces or older models.

At the end it will look something like this, it's wat i like and if you don't that's oke too, if it's all new to you then you
atleast have a idea were to start :y:

The finished model:








That's it, rewarding for me was that many parts came out of the sparesbox, for the money spend i could not buy a new kit, and
i ended up with something different, which performs also, what more could you ask for....

Hope you like it and feel free to ask, like or don't like it's all okay by me, to the custom and scratchbuilders, the trick is
filtering some aspects out to help you improve your models, if you need help with that then ask!
Thanks for watching, Rick
The following user(s) Liked this: Edou, TommieG, stingray-63, AndyAus

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Hummer H1 6x6x4 9 years 3 months ago #32495

Love it :y: Thanks for the details on your paint techniques too :)

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem mate :)
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Last edit: by AndyAus.

Hummer H1 6x6x4 8 years 6 months ago #35494

Good job Rick, I am really inspired by your work on overhauling of Hummer rc truck. I really want to have one for myself now. Due to lack of time, I can’t build one at the moment. So, I decide to go for a ready to run model. I browsed the internet and found a cool RC Hummer truck at www.thehobbywor...-4ghz.html , at fair price of $499.99. It is an extreme model with a lot of upgrades pre-installed. I will do custom build on it later on. I will upload some pictures and might make a video also.

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Hummer H1 6x6x4 8 years 6 months ago #35496

Hehe, looks like mine. :silly:



The following user(s) Liked this: stingray-63, Calrissian64

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