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Good Luck. A classic 4 Channels with the mfu on my dad's tank is really complex for my small head. You need to play with trims etc...
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I got to tour the ScaleArt factory a couple of years ago and saw where they make those Commander controllers from scratch. They are fairly unlike any other transmitter I've seen because they have modes of operation (I'll explain later), but they are also incredibly expensive. When I built my MAN 6x4 with a hydraulic crane I ran into similar problems with number of channels, although you have it worse with even more functions. I finally decided to use two different radio systems: one for driving the truck and one for operating the crane. I did this because I really wanted to be able to use the two sticks to operate the crane functions (not buttons or switches) so they would be proportional, but I also wanted to use the two sticks to drive the truck. Since you really never do both at the same time, I figured two radio systems was an acceptable compromise. The Commander is the only system I've seen that has switchable modes. So in "truck mode" the sticks control the truck, then you can flip a switch to go to "crane mode" and those same sticks control the crane. I don't recall how many max channels it has, but I know it is more than 20. Anyway, good luck! Very interested to see how you end up programming your transmitter and making everything work.
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Lately I have been quite busy with other things and have not been able to devote myself as much to this project as I would have liked.
I still spent a lot of time trying to figure out how my remote works and adjusting the available functions. Besides realizing that going from the stone age to the modern era ha ha ha I learned a lot from reading the various manuals and tutorials on the internet about how modern remotes work. I downloaded various manuals available and spent a lot of time studying them. My remote control was flashed with the "Open TX" software to allow it to have a module for more range. The previous owner was using it to fly drones and needed this. That being said, all the manuals referred to the original software and not the one that was installed. All the instructions on the internet and on the FrSky website for upgrading with the original software referred to the backup of the original software...backup that I obviously did not have. Neither did the previous owner. After many searches on the internet, I found a person who kindly sent me his backup. Thanks Mike if you read this! After installing various bootloader programs on my old computer and other programs I managed to install the original program. Once this was done all the manuals matched the software and the learning process could begin. In short, this whole process will be explained once the truck is finalized. Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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Welcome to the stone age remote club Manu. I am not able to trim correctly my turnigy 6channels to have a standard use...
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The crane, the hydraulic elements and the engine/transmission assembly having taken their final position I installed the transfer case.
I took care to look at the driveshafts available on the market in order to position it to find driveshafts corresponding to the different lengths. Once this one installed I ordered the driveshafts. 1x 55-65mm; rear axle 1 to rear axle 2 1x 63-80mm; transfer case to rear axle 2x 90-115mm2 front axle transfer case 1x 145-195mm; transmission to transfer case & front axle1 to front axle 2 Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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What is a trimm???? No worries Flo, i learned how to trimm and even how to mix channels.... I should even be capable of programming automated mix curves...but that's theory...we'll see if theory works later on ha ha ha Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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While waiting for my driveshaft order to arrive, the installation of the hydraulic blocks had to start.
The 5 valve block is for the crane and the 2 valve block is for the tipper. Ideally these two blocks should not be visible and should, for obvious reasons of connection, be together. Their total length is 157.5 mm. Until now I have not found any metal box corresponding to the length I like. The ones I like have a maximum length of 105mm...not enough to hide the hydraulic blocks. While searching I found a metal box corresponding to the exact length between the front and the rear axle, so 150 mm. This box is in chromed sheet metal and not in riffle sheet as I would like. I ordered it with the intention of modifying it later so that it corresponds to my expectations. This is how the box looks like So I put it together and the length fits perfectly. I have to admit that the finish is not what I expected but that's not a surprise. I had to cut the rear spar to allow the attachment of the hydraulic blocks to the chassis. Unfortunately the walls are part of the rigidity and I prepared some inner reinforcements to keep it stable. So I put it together and the length fits perfectly. I have to admit that the finish is not what I expected but that's not a surprise. I had to cut the rear spar to allow the attachment of the hydraulic blocks to the chassis. Unfortunately the walls are part of the rigidity and I prepared some inner reinforcements to keep it stable. Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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I'm fan of this built Manu.
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This is the planned location of the 5 valve block. I don't know yet how I'm going to position the 2-valve block because there will be the support in the middle. I still have to finish machining and prepare this support and once it's in place I'll position this block according to the available space.
Since I definitely want it to be riffle sheet, I ordered riffle sheet plates to cover this box and mades some templates ready to be screwed on it. The plan is to finish this toolbox quickly to install the hydraulic blocks and make the connections. Thanks for looking Manotas Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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Thanks Flo... It's a very challenging build and that's why I didn't want to buy an existing truck Proud owner of the Bruiser Family
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