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Rear light clusters took far longer than I anticipated, but then they do have 38 parts between them, 40 if you count the holes in the bodywork
Technique was three 3mm layers with 5mm & 3mm holes through as required, outer two glued together & dremelled into something like a reflector shape ... ... glued into a whole with raised dividers, tidied up & lenses (I got to use my Tamiya Scriber II for the first time (bought the first week of January ) ... ... holes made, trim/depth stopper fitted, and clusters inserted. Right one will go in straighter, it's a bit loose. Obviously they'll need to come out/apart again for painting (and a bit of filler, the trim cracked on a couple of the corners). I game one a quick try with the LEDs, the scribing really helps diffuse the light, but it's still very centre weighted so I may do something to spread it a bit more (paint the end of the LEDs I guess). |
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Jonny killer!!!
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I'vw been worked on the speaker housing...
... there was still a bit of room so added a fake cupboard unit + some greeblies. Also added (?) a port & cover. I'm planning to hide the speaker behind a curtain. Added weight didn't have a good effect on the rear spring on that side ... I'll have to find something more suitable in the end, but these are much stiffer & will do in the mean time. Cutting/bending clear glass (1mm lexan) for the cab windows: Work in progress on the spare wheel cover: |
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Speaker unit still goes through the roof aperture BTW - but more by luck than judgement
I'll probably add a short exhaust, but TBH I don't see that much point in putting too much detail on the underside... Bumper/step from a more normal angle; ladder will get added after I've dry built the interior & fixed the roof on ... Door isn't going that smoothly ... tiny hinges arrived, but after drilling one out for M2, making a new door frame edge reabting/undercutting that (far more fiddly & time consuming than it sounds), I realised the screws will foul & stop the door opening more that 45 degrees ... easily solved by using the "high" hole on one side of the hinge, "low" on the other - but it does mean starting the door frame again & I don't have the patience to do that immediately... |
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An idea to do a wrangler interior???
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I remember that in a "Monster Garage", they made a half pipe with a camping car with a very big sono....
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JR, I've got a few 1/16" brass rivets (2.80 dia x 1.2 high head, 1.60 x 6.35 long plain shank) that could be glued in instead of hinge screws.
OR, I have a few M1.6 x 10 slotted steel screws (3 dia x 1 high head). OR, I have very few M1.2 x 5 slotted steel screws (2.2 dia x 0.7 high head). I bought them for a "Current" project, but I might be able to spare some if they might work better than what you've got for hinge screws?
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
The following user(s) Liked this: Jonny Retro
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Thanks eddrick, but the M2 worked ok
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