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Hi Rob,

Thanks of the reply and answer. Okay now it makes complete sense why your moulds don't have any inlet for pouring.
I've been doing a load of research on line and watching various videos trying to work out how best to go about this. The air bubble issue being one of them especially off its poured in.

So doing it your way, you are going to get some flash around the edges to clear off.

I think I'm going to have to clear the decks a bit and give it a go.

Thanks again, have a good day.

Al

Hi Al,

Yes you do get flash to break away. Depending on the part, it can be a bit laborious to clean up. If you cast it right then the layer is wafer thin.

What are you doing to heat your mould and keep it warm?

I recommend getting the bamboo sticks you use for kebabs from the local shop to mix the resin. 1. they're disposable, 2. I find they absorb little moisture while not being used 3. the pointy end is IDEAL for popping the resin info tiny holes.

What is it you're thinking about casting out of interest, i'd love to know and keep up to date. Also feel free to PM me anytime if I can help.

Hi Rob,

How warm do I need to keep the mould ? Any advice would be welcome.

Things I plan to mould;

Various Cheetah parts. A roof to start off with - this could be a bit of a challenge because it's quite thin, but then there aren't any fiddly bits.
After that various bits - the winch, front lights, hopefully a windscreen frame, but this is super fragile.

I've strangely had one Sand Scorcher door handle which I acquired when I was about 15yrs old. I really have no idea how I got that.
But I will have a go at moulding that, so I have a pair. So I can add them to re-re shell or who knows I might get an original one day.

I'll keep you posted. And will share my mistakes and hopefully a few successes.

Cheers Al

Sorry Al,

Forgot about this one and its been manic. I find it beneficial to heat the mould and then keep it warm while it sets. Then let it cool for a while, split the mould and again leave it to cool for a while. You can distort the part if you de-mould too quickly.

A very simple way... I use a cheap hairdryer and if I am doing many parts in a cycle I put them in a tub and point the hairdryer in. Then I cycle the mould in and out of the "hot box" as me and my daughter call it .

Hi Rob,

Many thanks for all of the help and advice on this. I can appreciate you've put in a lot of effort and developed a load of techniques and ideas just for someone who you don't know come a long and pick your brains. ( sounds a bit Walking Dead ).

I thought I'd keep adding to this thread so it helps any one else who wants to have a go at molding parts.


I've put a couple of screen shots up.
Do you think this is a good starter kit to get going. I'd make the set up boxes out of something a bit more solid that e-flute ( corrugated plastic ).

I would also need to get some modelling clay to set my piece into so I can make the first half of the mold ?


Is this the sort of stuff to use ? They say it becomes more malleable if warmed a bit ?

Cheers Al

Hi Al,

Mmmm brains haha..

It looks a good starter kit, obviously cannot comment on the quality having never used it.

One word.... “Lego”. I made so many custom boxes, some as eleborate as wood and some as simple as card with a glue gun. I still used these methods but Lego is just fantastic for building a simple box around a small part. I “borrow” it from my daughters haha.

You’ll want to pick your self up some release agent for the mound, I love the silicone spray and Vaseline is messy and bulky and can disrupt the finish of your work. A very light coat between moulds if more than enough. Until your mound gets old...

With the clay, I used the attached picture, hobby craft for £3 ish. Yes it’s also more maliable when warmed. To the hairdryer to get its started in my hands. Then I flatten it and warm it again before normally gentley pressing e part in. Then it’s the finer details and building up and removing certaine parts of the mould.

One thing I found, it can be super hard to find and split the mould when you’ve done the second half. A small bit of toilet tissue paper in one corner helped start the splitting, or really peeling it apart. Just like a 4mm square, something quite insignificant away from your part. So I,d put this in just before I pour the second half off mould making process.

Hi Rob,

Many thanks that's all great help.
My kids have a ton of Lego, I'm sure they won't miss some.

I forgot about the release agent, I saw that some You Tube videos.

All the best,

Al