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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72690

This is why I print in PETG, nearly instructable!

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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72693

thats an argument for structural parts i agree.
wouldnt use it anymore for chassis parts. for the body i still prefer it because of its density and it can be sanded very easy (and i usually need to sand a lot onb these parts)
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72719

My crawler project has gotten a new skid plate


Borrowed the Axial transmission from the 6x6 build


I also printed a forward motor mount so the motor is now at front instead of behind the motor plate.
Helps with center of gravity when climbing.



I had a lot of trouble printing the bed plate the will sit between the rear of the frame rails.
Mostly down to the mounting holes on the sides are a bit apart from eachother and the bridging is to much so the strings cools off too fast and then release the other side of the mounting part from the bed.
Cut the bed in half and placed them so they stand up and both side by side.
This also made the part to come off the printer bed.
Now I'm printing each part invidually and hopes that is the ticket. So far so good.
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72721

Nice Richard.  I like your motor.
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72722

Very cool.
What glue do you use to glue petg together?
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72724

Nice Richard.  I like your motor.

Just a plaeholder.
I will buy a 13t 5 slot rotor crawler motor for it.
They are much slower than normal 13t and because of the 5 slot the upstart on them are very smooth. Possible to drive 1-2kmh of speed if you want to and have the right gearing,
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72725

Very cool.
What glue do you use to glue petg together?

I bought a can of CA and accelerator at one reatail store as recomended by some norwegians at a FB printing page.
Struggled to find something suitable as recomended by some YT videos, either too expensive or not available here till I asked that norwegian FB page.
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72726

The print of the bed failed. Came off the printer bed about 60% done.
Will add a raft to see if that helps...
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Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72728

When i had to print a part which always would warp i paused the print after the 1st layer with brim and then put aluminum tape over the brim at the areas where the print would come off.
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Last edit: by Lemsko.

Richard's journey in 3d printing 1 year 5 months ago #72729

Warp is about not exsistent.

Problem the printer knocked over the print.
The bottom was not secure enough to the print bed.

I've had failed prints with 1 layer glue stick,not so much with 2 layers. (Non heated bed)
Brim can help to secure the print to the bed, and makes the part come off easly from the brim when the print is finished.
That's how I understand it.
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