TOPIC:

Hehe Win3x - I remember when I got my "new" PC at work, the only one with Windows (3.11), we all fell about laughing at how useless it was & how the idea would never catch on!

Just a suggestion, but profile cutting 16swg-2mm ally might be cheaper/neater if you got a signmaker to do it (On a CNC router). I don't know if laser profiling CAN be done neatly, I've only ever seen steel done with it & I wouldn't say it's that neat (A bit better than plasma cutting, 2 steps better than gas-axe). A repro might be better in stainless anyway, to avoid those stripped threads (Or maybe use threaded inserts?)

What's different about a Sports-Tuned that it wouldn't fit? Do you think the odd gear & bearing arrangement(s) would be able to cope with extra beans behind it? I'd say the flatted first shaft will be the first thing to get spat out. The ally wheel-hex adaptors are also likely to be a weak point

Thought the stabilizer had some twiddly bits too...
Dunno if you have a connection for the laser cutter yet but Jules from TG might be able to do it as well.

Edit - replied again while missing the latest post...

this is how the mounts should not look like

If I was doing bits for myself I wouldn't be that fussy, but when you're doing for someone else they want to be as perfect as you can get them.
They look a bit "rushed" to me. I sympathise that you can't measure the length of the flat diameter below the chamfer, but he could've at least had all of them looking the same. No excuse for the gouge between chamfer & plain diameter. Poor, do them again!

Mine on the other hand, are spanking, they just won't fit cos I didn't know there's s'posed to be bearings on them... Chop chop with the measurements Waterbok!

sorry am of for the weekend (but may be allowed to take a car or two with me )

Chop! What about now? etc

First bit of (illustrated) additional info. An overview with on the left the minimal required parts to screw an FRP chassis together :



The common process would be that someone has the chassis plates and J parts tree...
Some of the bits in the mount bag aren't necessary and the antenna holder is only in the correct place for a Top Force shell :



SD3 is fitted on the rear shock tower (obviously) and SD4 is a spacer for the front.
One would only need SD2 when putting on a Top Force shell. Other bodies are mounted on the front shock tower.


What would be good to add, are the other hex mounts that are in the screw bag :



They are an essential part of putting an FRP chassis together...
Unless you go for waterbok's saddle pack idea.



Anyway, if you ask me what would be the most interesting balance between time and effort spent to necessity of parts, I'd say to just offer SD1, SD5 and SD6 (and possibly BB6). Anything else would be great but more for the hobby (yours fabricating the parts and ours building the chassis). Building a DF-01 to a higher spec is usually a longer process anyway...

The J12 part (first image on the right) is plastic.
I for one would gladly pay a bit extra for such a bag if there were a metal version of that in it...
They can normally only be sourced if you buy a complete Avante parts bag.

Steering mount measurements are coming up (unless wb beats me to it).

Edit :

I wrote:

What would be good to add, are the other hex mounts that are in the screw bag :

They are an essential part of putting an FRP chassis together...

Probably not that essential but also part of the larger DF-01 process.

Some simultaneous activity on TC. Must be in the air :

www.tamiyaclub....ntry486872

Your set (adressing eddrick of course) looks a lot tidier though.

Edit - wb already mentioned these earlier.

You're a star Edou!
SD5+6 are done, just need accurate dimensions for the top of SD1 so I can modify for bearing fitting. J12 in alloy should be easy, I just need dimensions.
I can copy the SD3 you sent (Ta), same goes for SD2 if it's needed.
I'll need dimensions for SD4, likewise for SD7 if it's ever required

Can't easily do a replica of BB6, but if you'd settle for a machine thread instead of self-tapping, they would probably be easy enough if needed (They're steel aren't they? - you can have ally, stainless or oil-blued mild steel, ally would be cheapest). If we need them, I need dimensions.

For the last bit I would prefer a saddle pack setup myself. For that you need certain pins that waterbok is working on...
But you don't need the self tapping hexs mounts then.
People would be looking for BB6 more regularly though.

Just took apart the chassis - measurements for the top bit of SD1 :

Diameter - 4.95mm
Length of smaller top - 6.70mm