TOPIC:

eddrick wrote:

Bottom line is, I'm not up to date with all this chat room, mug-book etc mallarky (Not really got any interest in social networking).

Hi Eddrick, what is happening when you get an email and click the link in it, is that you are sent to the first post that was made to the topic, after you were there last. But, there might be more than one reply since your last visit, so it is good to check either further down the page, of for more pages.

eddrick wrote:

The only real reason I keep tabs on this site is because I see people needing help with stuff I know I can help them with. It's in my nature to help people if I can.

You are an asset to this site, Eddrick, and we need more like you here, so keep on helping others The best thing about Forums, compared to emails is the fact that the knowledge shared here is shared to hundreds and hundreds of guests looking in these forums every day.

eddrick wrote:

I saw I had a "connection request" from you, I've no idea what "connection requests" are all about, or what to do with it.

A "Connection Request" is a TB member asking you to be Friends (on TB)
When you are friends, you get easy access to PM'ing through "Your Profile", "Friends" tab, and you can use the new live Chat feature we are currently testing.

If you have missed a Connection request, you can go to "Your Profile" (link in top right corner) and then the "Friends" tab to accept pending connection requests.

-Lars

HEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPP.
i have wired up my LED's today and one is a lot brighter than the other. i only have wired up 2 for now.
wiring is as follows, ( i cant draw wiring diagrams! )
red and black from plug
10ohm resistor soldered to red wire (as suggested before)
other end of resistor split into 2 reds
black wire split into 2 blacks
all connections soldered.
then soldered to the LED's
they both light up so i know the polarity is correct, am i using the wrong resistor or could it be a bad solder joint somewhere?

Are both LEDs wired up the same? ... Red wire to "long" leg on the LED, black to the "short" leg/side with the flat on it ... although I would have thought if you've got one backwards it wouldn't work at all as you said ...

The only other thing I can think of is that the dim one is duff, or it's a lower brightness one that got mixed in the batch by mistake

yes jonny, if they were wired up wrong they wouldnt work at all, i am gonna cut it all open and replace the led, see if it helps

success, swapped the LED for another and all is well, fitted and tested.
here are a few pics, i will take a short vid tonight when its dark. well happy

That's looking pretty awesome.

as promised a few more pics and a small vid. unfortunately they hadnt cut the grass in the local park so it got stuck a bit but i did have a good go at killing the wife haha


s188.photobucke...0_1225.mp4

I think you need to look again at your resistor value - Knowing that LEDs usually lose brightness after being overloaded, I thought I'd have a proper look at this, so I breadboarded up a test rig. My power supply is 5v (4x 1.2v NiCd), my resistor is a variable 2200 ohm, my LEDs are 2-off 3v high output white, wired in parallel. Adjusting the variable resistor for maximum brightness without anything getting hot or hurting itself gives a MINIMUM value of 150 ohms (They still work ok at 2200, just not quite as bright). I then tried setting 10 ohms to see what happened, & both LEDs quickly got hot (This is normally followed by them going dim or a different colour, then failure). If it were me, I'd be putting in a 500 ohm (approx)
for safety, as the difference in brightness between 150 & 500 isn't noticeable

the LED's dont seem to be getting very hot and if they do fade in time they are easily replaced, i bought a packet of 100 so i have plenty of them.
as long as there is no risk of damaging the ESC or any other parts of the electrickery i am happy

If they're happy, they should be cold to the touch after being lit for a few minutes, they shouldn't even get warm when running (Heat means there's more current going through than what's needed to create the light, so the extra energy is dissipated in another form, ie heat). Diodes (Of any kind) can fail in one of 2 different states - open circuit (Same as cutting the wire) or short circuit (Same as joining +&- together). If they fail short circuit, that means they effectively join the + & - of the battery together (Via the BEC chip), which would be bad. IF this were to happen, I suspect what you'd actually witness would be the lights go out, the radio suddenly stops working & the 10 ohm resistor get V hot &/or start to smoke, possibly even melt the insulation on the wiring. I would think that although the BEC won't enjoy the experience, it would probably survive it. You could use a 500mA fuse in the + feed to the LEDs to protect the BEC, just in case