TOPIC:

Some pics as promised.

Got hold of some spotlights, as these were missing. Just awaiting decals.

Driver restored.

The chassis is not in bad order really. Chassis needs new speed controller, a new receiver box and lid, the red colour axles cleaning up, and a thorough clean of the chassis.

Hmmm, the chassis looks very nice!
You even have the rubber cover for the motor, which is usually rotted to pieces.
Also both front and rear bumper looks strait, that is not common for such a heavy model

Keep us informed un the progress!

-Lars

larbut wrote:

Hmmm, the chassis looks very nice!
You even have the rubber cover for the motor, which is usually rotted to pieces.
Also both front and rear bumper looks strait, that is not common for such a heavy model

Keep us informed un the progress!

-Lars

Forgot to mention that the front lower bar is from "Kev the Rev" on Tamiya Club. I got two so that when I hopefully get my Blazer, I can replace if required. The bar is solid, unlike the original, so although it will mark, it should not bend so easily as the original.

Wonder about that brake fluid too. I got vintage 959 shell like to try that on. I can get the nerve up too scared of messing it up. Its in excellent shape for one these just the paint is nasty. Afraid to ruin it trying this on it.

David1967 wrote:

Wonder about that brake fluid too. I got vintage 959 shell like to try that on. I can get the nerve up too scared of messing it up. Its in excellent shape for one these just the paint is nasty. Afraid to ruin it trying this on it.

Be very careful with brake fluid and old lexan bodies. My Celica Gr.B shell turned white after some time in brake fluid bath.. That was an expensive experience...

Safest thing to use on old lexan is fuel/nitro (like for RC model planes an cars).

-Lars

Ah, the age old subject of paint stripping...
1st thing you need to know is WHAT SORT OF PAINT? - enamels etc only stick to the surface of plastic, so you need to use something that will DEBOND it & not attack the plastic. As a general rule, paints (the colour bit, not the chemical make up) are plastic based, & as such if the solvent attacks the paint, it'll attack the plastic it's stuck to. People use brake fluid because its action is slow enough to get rid of the paint before you see any damage to the plastic. It works on oil based & enamel paints, but not where automotive (cellulose/solvent based) paints are used. These types of paints eat into the plastic when applied, much the same way as solvent cements do, & the only good way to get rid of it is 320 grit wet & dry sandpaper (used wet in a light circular fashion). Metal parts are easy cos you can use any solvent or paintstripper without fear of damage, but be sure to remove any plastic/rubber bits. Best thing to do if you're not sure is try it on an unimportant bit first, & what ever you use, be sure to wash the parts in warm soapy water after stripping to remove any residues that might attack the plastic long-term or affect paint application

I think the 1st thing one need to know before removing paint is what kind of plastic the paint is stuck on.
Basically there are two types:
ABS plastic (hard bodies)
Lexan / Polycarbonate (clear plastic, painted inside)

ABS plastic have no problem with either Brake Fluid or Caustic Soda (NaOH). I have never had any reaction from the chemicals.

Lexan /Polycarbonate bodies are harder to work with. Brake Fluids seem to work well on newer shells, but will cloud older shells. Caustic Soda is a "no" for both. The Polycarbonate will get very brittle.

Tamiya now makes a paint remover for Polycarbonate. Item no 87118. I have heard only good reviews of this little bottle.


-Lars