TOPIC:

Looks like you would need axis with an e-ring at each end with an aluminium A5.
For the small story, one guy showed me that part on the track at some point last year: "Marc, you know how to design 3D parts, can you do something for this?". I had a look, asked what car, what part. Search on Thingiverse. 'Look it's there".
The problem I have with aluminium in place of original plastic is that generally, you move the weak point somewhere else. It may be wise to think about it before switching to metal parts...
 

silvertriple wrote:

Looks like you would need axis with an e-ring at each end with an aluminium A5.
For the small story, one guy showed me that part on the track at some point last year: "Marc, you know how to design 3D parts, can you do something for this?". I had a look, asked what car, what part. Search on Thingiverse. 'Look it's there".
The problem I have with aluminium in place of original plastic is that generally, you move the weak point somewhere else. It may be wise to think about it before switching to metal parts...

 

That particular part has a very obvious failure mode and a poor design.  The hinge pin hole has a short edge margin (small wall thickness).  On top of that, it is made from a brittle plastic which is notched as soon as you put the self tapping screw pin into it.  The stress concentration from the notch combined with the thin wall creates a rapid fracture in the event of any kind of impact (like a jump).  It's too bad because the Thundershot chassis is otherwise really nice, but it is almost unusable with the design flaw and it has never been corrected (Thundershot, Thunder Dragon, Terra Scorcher, Fire Dragon all use same part and so do re-re's).  Use of a shaft with e-clip instead of screw pin would fix the problem.  Aluminum part or steel reinforcement works too.   I've never had another failure after reinforcing it.

I'm not quite sure what length e-clip shaft would be needed.  Screw pin is 3x46mm, but shaft would need to be slightly longer to extend far enough to install e-clips.  48mm?

I would say take the measure of the length between e-rings, and add 2mm at each end (1 mm for the end, and 1 mm for the e-ring). It should not be an issue if it is too long.

Well, not exactly the mailman, as I went to my favorite dealer this morning to fetch some parts I was waiting for too long...
When I arrived, I got a gift. He told me when I went there before Christmas that he have something for me, and he would give it to me next time I would come. It was today.
Here is :


There was no other customers, he offered me a coffee and we had some very nice and long discussions. I showed him my work on the Nichimo, he was impressed. I suspect that next time he gets a car with a broken chassis, he'll ask me if I'm interested
 

Dude! Nice gift. And that is smelly another nichimo.💪💪💪

I now have the full perm of Hot Wheels '85 Honda City Turbo IIs

Pretty nice Jonny.

Jonny wrote:

I now have the full perm of Hot Wheels '85 Honda City Turbo IIs

I went looking for those today, but the shop was almost out of Hot Wheels cars.
BTW These are 1:64 scale so in a 1:10 scala garage diorama they are 1:6.4 scale.

But goes great together with the 1:6 Tamiya models.

Like the fg marder 

My last two small Tamiya buggies for my scale garage arrived today.
These is the UCC versions with pull back and are slightly bigger than the Georgia ones.