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Sorry to hear you've been ill chap
Using debonder assumes it won't melt the plastic, and also that someone used cyanoacrylate (superglue) to glue tyres on - the biggest problem tyres I've had have all had copious amounts on Evostick/impact adhesive Oven heating is too high risk for me, those are big wheels & could soften & warp well below their melt point. Boiling is safer, at least they're not going to get above 100C (impurities or being halfway up a mountain notwithstanding), but again assumes it's CA - and a moderate quantity of old CA at that. The method I've used is to take off as much of the old tyre as possible with a scalpel, and turn the remainder off on a lathe with a parting off tool. Low tech alternative - horizontally fix a drill to the bench & use aggressive wet & dry paper, folded, to get in the grooves. |
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I think there's an article in the technical section about removing glued on tyres.
Did Andy write it ?? tamiyabase.com/...-from-rims |
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Yep a bath in boiling water.
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strange... I never had this type of problem. I lost rims with debonder, but not with boiling water.
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Hi Caprinut,
Just to let you know tyres removed from rims and new tyres fitted and also servo problem solved. Vehicle now running perfectly. Just one other request, can you use an uprated battery and fast charger as still using original 7.2v 1200mAh battery which takes 5 hours to charge for approx 15min run time. Regards Den |
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Thanks for letting us know.
Yep upgraded battery would work fine in any chassis. I advice to by a 4000mAh 7.2v NiMh battery. And a computer charger. Charging a 4000mAh on 4A will take around 1 hour to be fully charged if empty. Most computer chargers can charge most battery types in the menu. Just select NiMh and set the A to the level you want. A 4000 battery will give you over 30min of runtime. Bin the wall type charger as they takes forever to charge a battery. |
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