TOPIC:

darc wrote:

hy there great car manta ray i have raced mine at club level many times , i did not see these tips on here or if i did i apoligise for not reading correctley .

no 1

but the rear gearbox cover on the top , place a big washer on the right hand side screw at the back , ( page 5 in manual top section screw BA3 on part B6 . powerful motors tend to make this screw pop open making the ideal gear come out of sink so a big washer resolves this .

no 2

rear shock tower part B5 the 2 ba3 screws holding it to the rear gear box will not take much stress from any jumps at speed etc remove them and put a longer bolt through with a nut on each side and this will resolve this .

no 3

i once had the top force and sold it major regret for me , but the manta ray front steering
bar that connects to c4 and c5 is badely designed and will soon make the holes bigger making the wheels have play on the steering , i find bending the ends of bp7 bar resolves this by making the fit tighter .


Good luck and hope this helped

Some very interesting suggestions by darc...

I'm just not sure what you mean exactly with no 1.
Could you elaborate? Does that help spread the tension?


The second suggestion is definitely also very interesting.
I'll keep that in mind for when I decide to go off road jumping...

No 3 I have approached myself in another way.
Of course the best way to solve this is an FRP chassis and a Top Force steering assembly.
But I have modded a reissue chassis also to fit alloy steering parts and a threaded shaft instead of using tie rod BP7 :



Not without consequence though - a big part of the front of the chassis had to be dremeled and weakened as a result.
But I'll be using some fiber glass and resin to strenghten it again.


Gets rid of all the play!

yes number one keeps the pressure on the casing more suffecient , i discoverd this problem with a ten turn double brushed motor and 5300 nimh batt and a tuff race course .


but outstanding work hats off to you with the steering never fantastic job i am going to follow this tip and replicate it on my manta ray well done

Still quite amazing how this "old" design manages to handle with that kind of power.
Should be loads of fun with a 13.5T brushless... and some spare parts.
An even nuttier idea would be to fit some high quality universals and a 10.5T.
Don't think the dogbones and cups will hold out long with that...

heheheh oh they will handel it matey , this car is the first of great design and put the terraschorcher chassie out the racing scene .

however as weird as it may seem i have actually found the orginal geared diffs more stronger and more lasting than the ball diffs .

i pack all my geraboxes and diffs with high content molybdenum disulphide grease , i pack them so hard that on the first motor power up the grease actually slows the motor down for a short while while the grease adapts to the internal dynamics of the gearbox and motions of gears etc .

Didn't take step by step pics of this one, because I'm rebuilding it for my Nephew. Nedded to get it done. But the good news is, It is almost fully rebuilt.

You have a lucky nephew.
Sometimes I think a Manta Ray just looks better without a wing...