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This is the start of my restoration of the Tamiya SUPER HORNET.

The following is a list of all I got in a purchase I made on one of our local buy/sell sites called KIJIJI.

More Pics. BTW, not sure if I overpaid but I bought the lot at $60.00 Canadian RTR without battery. The mechanical speed control is going to be replaced with a ESC cause it's sticking allot.

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me - especially with three bodies.
Finding original rear wheels could be the only problem I think...
Which is not an issue if you want to run it of course.

Lets see ... 60 CAN ... is about a Duck-Billed Platypus - 37.50 GBP, so I think you did pretty well there

The wheels have already been mentioned (can't help you out there - I have a Super Hornet but it has Frog/original Hornet wheels on it, and a Kamtec Rough Rider body ) ... but have you got the battery covers for the bottom of the car?

The Techniplus "Alpha" transmitter is probably the "best" Acoms radio as it's recent enough to still be reliable, and is the newest one to still have a decent (500mw) power output ... on the next & subsequent models it got cut by 80%

ESCs ... I quite like the Tamiya TEU101BK (& the TE1U104, which is the same apart from having a "LiFe" battery cutoff, which is irrelevant as I don't think anyone uses that technology, even if Tamiya did try to push it when the SRB re-releases started ) - some people don't like the "double tap" reverse (stick down to brake, back to neutral & then stick down to reverse), but once you've done that, reverse is full power & instant; just about every other ESC manufacturer has a reverse you can get straight away - but it's half power & slow to wind up

Mtroniks (and other badged equivalents) are waterproof, and one with a 20 turn motor limit will cost about the same as a Tamiya unit

I have a TEU104BK 45041 on order and should be here any day now. Looking for a sticker set and some good ideas on how to clean the whole thing up. I'm going to be keeping the one body orange, painting the other "good" body purple and leaving the third "okay" body the way it is for running it. Now, I have a spare chassis but the front has a nasty crack in it. Will resin be able to fix this ..... any ideas here?

I also bought a metal parts bag 9405593 cause I'm missing a few pieces here. If I can get the crack in the spare chassis fixed I would like to eventually build another one of these.

You're right about the tires though. WOW, are they ever hard to find. Gotta also hate when a screw gets stripped in the plastic and the way "they" fix it is to install a bigger screw. Arghhhh. Now I have to fill those holes in and re-tap them. Yes I do have the battery cover, but only one of them. Missing one for the spare chassis.

I'm open to ideas guys. Any information would be great to have.

Okay, seeing that I might not be able to find rear wheels for this thing, and I want to run it sometime this year I need some help finding some wheels that will fit this and still look nice. I'm really new to this and learning as I go along. Please forgive my ignorant questions. Also, if there is anything that I need to watch out for and should be upgraded before I re-assemble it would be really helpful.

I'd say wait for the re-release of the Wild One, & hopefully snaffle a set of wheels from that

Re: split chassis & stripped tappings in plastic - the splits can be welded with an old 25W soldering iron, with a clean flat bit in it. Trick is to dig halfway into the depth of the plastic with the bit side-on, then whilst it's all molten, use the flat of the bit to fold the displaced molten plastic back into the groove you just made. Far stronger than gluing, as long as you don't overheat the plastic (Overheating makes it look wet & will cool brittle).
For stipped holes in plastic, I do one of 2 things - either fill the hole with slow-set epoxy or"Instant metal" (The stuff that sets hard, not the fast-set goopy stuff - JB Weld is good if you can find it). OR if the hole's really bad, weld it up, as above.
As far as front tyres go, I bet there'll be at least 3 sets on Ebay UK as we speak...

Rerelease Wild One wheels is a good idea - they are very similar to the Super Hornet.
When it comes to the shape of the rim as well as the wheel adapter, just not the colour.
And you'll have to wait a few months...

But you need the original adapters then which you may not have because other rear wheels are on the car at the moment.
Could you have a look what's on the axle and what kind of shape the rim has where it is fitted?

You can also use 12mm hex adapters (Tamiya 53913 or a generic version) - that will give you many options.
If they're not on the car already with these other wheels...
Then you should be able to fit a set for a DT-02 or any other modern RWD buggy.

And when you take the car apart, I'd go for a set of ball bearings at least.



Edit - I think I spotted the original adapters between the spare parts...

Ball bearings for what. I took the gearbox apart and it appears that there is already a set of steel ball bearings in there. I cleaned them all and re-greased them as well as all the gears and gearbox with new grease.

I will take a picture of the "bathtub" with the read gearbox assembled as I already assembled that portion last night. I'll show you what adapters are on the axles.

Thanks for all your input guys. Very much appreciated.

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