TOPIC:

No you haven't regenerative braking but the autonomy is largely better due to the fet or mosfet etc. An ESC consumes largely less energy than a MSC.

Done and done. All that remains is trying to hide some black splotches but I seem qualified to make a single coloured body. Oh yes, body pillars are actually cut pieces of insulating tape, and every sticker was carefully taken off the original body and reapplied

I know this isn't Tamiya (after all we were at Kyosho forum.) My F40 Mid goes well, not great because someone lost the Kingpins and switched them with any random screw it seemed to fit. so, front wheels change from toe in to toe out at random.

Ordered a new set of OT4 parts (King pins) at it's price 18 €.

when parts arrive, I NEED to know if I'm supposed to put Threadlock so they won't fall apart. Those parts are expensive, so, won't want to throw them away. The turbo optima manual, (The only uploaded to the net won't specify to cement them.)

I'm not familiar with how the king pins on this chassis is designed, but I assume you could use thread lock?
do you have a sketch or picture of the suspension details?

Dash_Crash wrote:

I know this isn't Tamiya (after all we were at Kyosho forum.) My F40 Mid goes well, not great because someone lost the Kingpins and switched them with any random screw it seemed to fit. so, front wheels change from toe in to toe out at random.

Ordered a new set of OT4 parts (King pins) at it's price 18 €.

when parts arrive, I NEED to know if I'm supposed to put Threadlock so they won't fall apart. Those parts are expensive, so, won't want to throw them away. The turbo optima manual, (The only uploaded to the net won't specify to cement them.)

They look similar to tamiya ones, they are screws, but only lathed up to the first 40% of lenght, being the rest Just a smooth Rod, the only difference lies on the groove being metric (to screw on the metal upright) and the head, being an hexhead instead of a Philips head.

It sounds like thread lock would work fine?

Or CA glue...

My Optima MID F40 (Minus kingpins , already ordered.) Sadly my tape derped during the painting, oh, also the grey paint cling impervious to Alcohol, I dunno how would look if I paint the outside, but before I screw it, here it is.



Some pre-mods I did:

Swapped the original Plastic Nuts for proper metal ones. (rims look better with a black nut)

Painted the rear view mirrors with the same black I used on the body, the carbon effect is a happy accident.

the spoiler is painted with the same paint as gray areas.

Black pillars on windows are just insulating tape, finely cut.

Stickers are the original ones transferred by removing them with an X acto knife and having school grade stick glue applied on them.

The blinkers are another happy coincidence, I was on Euro world topping on some supplies (Like sandpaper) when I saw those plastic 'crystals' on the same size and the same color of the F40 blinkers, oh yes, they also are autoadhesive.

The chassis had been updated to an ESC because MSC croaked on me, only 1st speed was available, so when I got it, resistor was burning (not ablaze, just grab a pencil solder plugged and imagine)

Motor is just your stock Le Mans 240S I for a moment wanted to change it for a 240st in hope it was a better motor, but no cigar, 240ST was a budgeted down 240S model, and Kyosho Le Mans are basically, landfill business, so, no good. But it's OEM so... Also front springs were busted, and nose was dangerously down, so, replaced them for two DF01 rear ones I got to spare, so, practically no front suspension at all.

All that remains now is assembling the kingpins and then, try to find something to avoid crumpling the car's nose. (Really, nose of the body ends like 2 good inches beyond chassis stock bumper.)

First impressions on the car once restored, it goes fine, Kingpins won't budge away, but car is slow as a dead slug, I know this car is a hodge-podge based on a buggy, but buggies have a longer gear ratio with their huge tires, I think this won't help my car even reaching a scale speed like it's 1/1 counterpart ...

F40 top speed 321 Km/H (199 MPH) @ 1/9 it should be 35 Km/H, in reality the max speed I got from a Kyosho F40 had been of 29.8 Km/H (GPS measurements) and this was on my old F40, who had ball bearings and an LRP motor.

The F40 I have now is slower, totalling like 25 ish Km/H (it has Kyosho Le Mans 240S motor plus steel Bushings) I suppose that by adding a couple teeth on main pinion I would see some speed improvement, but not near 35 Km/H

today was my first proper run with my F40, drove it slow, smooth and steady (because I don't know how will it handle fast speeds on leaky shocks, oh yes, also because it was a pleasure to gawk at it's body shining on october sun. S#itty paintjob isn't that bad from a distance.) Actually never reached 20 Km/H except when some millennial kids asked "it doesn't run?" a mighty tug of the trigger shut them good and propelled it to nearly 30 Km/H. But can't trust it, I seen many times the front tires jumping wildly from going with too tight springs on no shocks at all (I should rebuild them soon) aft. shocks are fine tru... anyways, the best was how a 25+ year car can still be a head turner. Much like a real F40 in Yugo land (or China brands heaven)