TOPIC:

I am really interested in starting to build tamiya bikes but as i looked into it i obviously found out that the parts need to be painted which is pretty cool because you can of course customise the models however you want but unfortunately my only option for painting is a paint brush and paint as my budget is very low. Is this going to be possible? And is it possible to build them without any tools? (i have the basic tools like cutters, sandpaper, tweezers and some other stuff) I've also never built a model before so i have no idea what im doing in regards to paint types and glue.
Edit: i read about tamiya spray cans and im good with spray cans so would these be a good option? And how many kits could i do with 1 can? (let's say for the fairings or a large part)
Another question, can you just build the kits with just paint and whatever is the box and nothing else or do all kits need some modifications and stuff? 

You don't need expensive tools to build a scale bike. Tamiya is one of the best quality brand and enough easy same if bikes aren't the easiest.
you need cutting pliers, fine brush, paint, scalpel and sissors. 
For the glue I use revell and paint revell and tamiya. Honnestly, the revell paint is cheaper and very easy to clean (clean the brush under warm water) I use revell brushes to. (The ones inclued into complet kits with glue, paints, and brush. 

Thanks for the advice!
I have been watching some videos of people building them and they always fill in the spaces in between some parts, would i need to get something to fill them in or is it just a preference thing? Also, if i modify the spindles would it be possible to have the wheels spin? 

For a tamiya, no need to fill. They are top quality. And tamiya bikes have already spinning wheeles.

I have never built a plastic kit bike so I can not comment on that.

But I have built cars in the past and some have wheel axles, a metal rod that the wheels are sat on so the wheels can turn.

If you go to a good model shop, they will have a good selection of pianowire in many sizes.
These can be cut to any length so you can make the tire turn.
For that you might invest in some miniature drill bit.
Some hardware stores carry small drill bits and maybe a hand held drill with chuck on it so you can drill small holes.
Those kits is probably cheaper than at you local hobby shop.

You don't need putty or bondo to fill parts, but the part will be much neater looking if you do if you can sand it level so the area will look like one part.
Engine case is one example.

Some sort of magnifying glass can be handy for small parts, I got a cheap one from my hardware store.

A bike usually consist of many more colors than a car, like aluminium frame, steel for brake disc, iron for chains, clear red and yellow for lights, body color, various shade of blacks,
Back in the day I used Humbrol colors that came in small jars, those was inexpensive, how the pricing is totay I have no idea.
A place where the sell warhammer stuff etc, is likely to have a good selection of paints and related stuff.
Todays stuff is mostly waterbased and is much more health friendly than the past offerings.

Spray paint works fine, but a more expensive than those jars.
Maybe spray paint for body color and big parts, and those small jars for small details?

Myself have several plastic kits to build, like revell VW Transporter Westfalia, Italery Scania, Tamiya Zakspeed Capri x2, Monogram Duesnberger and Imsa Mustang to name a few.
I have consentrated on my rc vehicles for now, but some of those plastic kits have been waited for over 30 years to be completed so I better start soon ish.
I need to buy stuff as well for model kit building as most of my tools are rc related.

But a "which basic tools is needed for model building" video on Youtube is a good start to see what you might need.
Remember, there is nothing wrong with buing tools and stuff at hardware store, dollar store etc for your needs as long as it works for you,
I'm a cheapskate due lack of funds, but I try to buy stuff that does not ruin me 

And a good tip to apply glue is to use a toothpick or use revell professional contacta which has a thin needle.
Remember on a good built kit you can not see any glue at all.
And for clear glass, like windows, windshield a canopy glue is good to use.
Airplane guys use that stuff. It is white out of the bottle and dries clear.
Problem with some of the superglues out there is that they tend to fog up clear parts.
And avoid to pick up you model with bare hands while painting and let the parts fully cure before handling.
Some of my young me mistakes is some fingerprints after I was not carefully enough 


For making super details you can buy something that is called photo etched parts.
When these are done right they look like real metal parts.
But not every model has such parts available.


Good luck and tell us how it goes.
 

It seems like the tamiya 10 ml jars are my cheapest option but they are over £2 each so it looks like its going to cost a bit

Try revell Aqua colors they are cheaper than tamiya jars. Like said richard, revell contact pro glue is perfect. I use it since up to 10 years. And for Windows a solution is wood white glue. It avoid the clood on transparent parts.

I used acryl paint tubes from 1 euro store, thinned them with water and window cleaner,and they last very long. I also  bought a cheap used airbrush pistol. You only need to seal the paint at the end. That worked quite well for me.
As an example:

 

It's perfectly possible to get good results by just using what's in the kit & brush painting, without getting all the etched/detail parts & modifying/weathering everything. Tamiya provide a tiny driver for the screws in the kit.

I would add filler to the list though (I'd suggest Tamiya Putty White 87095) as some of the most visible joints (top of fuel tank, front of fairing) can benefit from extra work ... The rider figures need extra attention (and quantities) IMO, I'd suggest Milliput Superfine White epoxy putty (and nitrile gloves while kneading it).

On some bikes I've found it better to use paint rather than the larger waterslide transfers, the Tamiya masking tapes are all excellent, the 6mm & 10mm reels in dispensers are the most all round useful, you'll also need a finer plastic type.   

I'd recommend Italeri synthetic brushes if you can find them in cheap sets, if not, Humbrol "Coloro" set AG4050 has 4 useful sizes for around 5GBP. I'd recommend Tamiya X/XF acyrilic jars for their availability, super long shelf life, (relative) lack of stink, reusability/recyclability of the the jars, easy cleanup, mixability, compatibility on other paint types, range of colours, and their airbrushability if you want to go in that direction ... though they can have a long cure time esp. when brushed, and some of the colours (notably flat red & yellow) have a weak amount of pigment in them IMO. Prices have doubled in the last 5 years, I think we're now paying for them being held at 99p for the 25 years (IIRC) before that. get the X-20A thinners too

I'd like to be able recommend Humbrol Acrylic pots, but have found them very poor in comparison I gave up on metal "enamel" tinlets a lot time ago because of the stink.

I don't think I can recommend aerosols for small kits, though they can have a place as primer & colour for the larger areas (fairings etc). I don't buy the Tamiya TS (synthetic lacquer) paints any more after having compatibility failures. I'd suggest Hycote 400ml cans of White (& Grey) Plastic Primer, plus their large cans of generic colours (post office van red, AA van yellow, white, Aluminium Coat). They will cover all the kits you could possibly want in the 7 years or so before they lose pressure. Really not a "beginner" thing to be considering IMO.

The older 1:12  kits (Virago, RC30, original Katana etc) are a good place to start as they can be had for sub 15 GBP, whereas anything "modern" hits the 30+ mark really quickly. The 1:6 Katana kit had a cheap re-run recently, 75 GBP is a lot - but not compared to the other 1:6 kits

Here are some of mine as they left the kit (apart from filler & some masking/painting instead of transfers, and some homemade transfers on the riders), all brush painted:













 

I have up to 25 years old tamiya paint jars.