TOPIC:

I've got a 2011 avante and the part that steers the wheels keeps on breaking namely C tree part number 19005281. In one month 3 of them have broken . I was wondering if anyone knows if I can get them in metal like the steering knuckles. I'm not doing silly things for them to break, just cornering. It's getting very annoying now I must admit:(

Found some here

Or these maybe.

Brilliant thank you, exactly what I was looking for. Those should save a fortune in the long run. Thanks guys

Just remember that strenghtening one weak part pushes the stress further down the line with the possibility of breaking the next weak part in the chain. The impact energy has to be released somewhere. Hopefully the large rubber bushing in the front will do the job?

Tom

You could also put on a high torque servo saver on it (if it doesn't have one) in case the force is directed there...

I've no idea what part we're talking about, or indeed what the setup looks like, but just a suggestion - are you sure you haven't got too much steering travel? - I'm thinking it could be binding the driveshafts at full lock, & when they try to jump out it usually results in something getting broken

Just had a quick butchers... if you're breaking steering knuckles, that almost certainly driveshaft related, most probably due to the steering travel being to great. (At full steering lock, the driveshafts bear on the cups, & when a cup slot lines up with the shaft its like sticking a broomhandle in your bicycle spokes. It trys to ping the shaft out sideways & usually breaks the cup or knuckle). If that's the case, you need to move the steering rod ends closer to the pivots, or turn the steering rate down on your transmitter (If yours will allow it). Another trick is to put a small soft O-ring in the bottom of each drive cup - this centralises the driveshaft & stops it rattling about, however this won't sort it if the steering is very excessive

Hi eddrick, I've just tried moving the steering rods closer to pivots but then my wheels aren't straight. I've followed measurements in manual namely 16mm and wheels sit straight. I've gotta say though on full lock the wheels are at a very sharp angle. I do not have a remote that steering rate can be adjusted. Three steering knuckles in a month does seem excessive. Eventually I hope to have car running sweet after all the problems I've been having but its all a learning curve.

In my experience the measurements in the manuals tend to be rubbish, so I usually set it up from scratch so I know it's right.
Start by setting the trim on the transmitter in the middle. Then, put the servo horn on as near to straight as you can get it, & see if you can make it straight within the range of the transmitter trim. Then, screw the track rod ends in or out until the wheels are straight & parallel (Or slightly toed in/out if recommended, but by the same amount). Finally, run the car & adjust the trasmitter trim to get it running straight. If the trim adjustment is excessive, you can always adjust it back at the rod ends. Generally, you need to aim to get the servo horn position as near dead-centre as you can get it or whatever it's operating will move more in one direction than the other.
As far as binding shafts go, a quick test is to put the steering to full lock, then rotate the wheel & see if there's any 'notching' 'clicking' 'locking' or 'grinding', in fact anything that leads you to believe the shaft could get caught in the cup slots. Also try jiggling the shaft, to see if it could possibly find its way too far into a cup, causing the same problem (This can be fixed with O-rings as outlined earlier). Hope this helps