TOPIC:

Just a quick query re - cleaning up R/C bits 'n bobs:

I just acquired via Ebay an original Frog, (#58041), 1983 or so I think. It's basically complete & sound apart from a cracked rear suspension arm. My question is this:

I plan to restore & sell on, but obviously need to clean it up. I've downloaded the manual, so plan to take it all apart & start from new. Any tips on how to clean up dirty/oily/dusty parts??

Is there any sort of solution I can soak them in, or is it best to do each bit separately with some sort of cloth & soapy water or something?

Cheers for any advice, which will be all gratefully received

I use White Spirit to clean up the parts from grease and oil (leave the submerged parts for some hours) Works very well on screws and smaller bits, but also large plastic bits. I know some use the WD40 spary for the same purpose.
After initial clean, then there is hot soapy water and a tooth brush, and some elbow grease.
I have also tried the dishwasher.... works well also, but the chemicals seem to dry out the plastic, turning it flat/whiteish. (this can/will also happen with white spirirt and plastics.)
To make the parst shiny again, I rub them in with oil/greas and polish them back into former glory

-Lars

Cool, cheers for the info.

I downloaded the manual already, so just need to print it off and get the screwdriver ready!!

Rick

I usually use laundry liquid (The cheap Tesco stuff) in hand-hot water, 1/2" paint brush & a toothbrush for the stubborn bits. I usually chuck all the bits in to soak & start cleaning the least dirty bits first (So the dirtiest bits get the longest soaking). Give it a rinse with clean water after, to flush away the grit & soap residue. Grotty metal bits can be cleaned in diesel, paraffin, petrol etc but not the plastic. Grease should come off the plastic bits with the laundry liquid (Brush it in undiluted), failing that, use diesel (but don't leave it to soak) & wash it in warm soapy water afterwards. RE rear arms - if you can't source replacements, the cracks are best welded with a clean soldering iron (Glue doesn't work cos the parts are under a lot of stress), OR what we used to do when we were racing them was to pop a couple of holes in either side of the crack & cable-tie it together after super-gluing it (This isn't very permanent though either)

Ultra sonic cleaners work really well just drop the parts in the liquid that comes with them or mix your own solution of detergent and warm water and switch it on. It works by vibrating and un-sticks all of the dirt from the part. You can buy them from an electronics store for around $80 well worth the investment

im just about to start my boomer project,all i did was dissasembled all parts sprayed them with wd 40 left them to soak for a couple of days and then poured a capfull of washing detergent in a bowl,half full of hot water,washed with a paint brush and swilled of with hot water.(thanks to eddrick for the tip,i used the wifes persil small and mighty)
amazing results...the wd 40 breaks down all the grease and gunk then u basicly just wash it off.




a couple of shots of the project as it started out!

for the screws and metal bits i did the same with wd 40 then gave then a petrol bath for an hour in a small tin or container,the muck falls off then drain and spray with wd 40 again or gt 85 so they dont rust.
job done,project on

hope this helps

jon the fox

Did I ever mention I like WD-40 too?

wd 40 rocks its the reason why dogs have dangleys lookin good soakin away there Edou.

it doesnt seem to get of the alloy left by the pinnion gear,anyone know how to get that off?

jtf

Do you mean the blue anodization? Some diluted bleech will take care of that...
Cola will make stuff shiny again too btw.

You should see the WD-40 now, put all together. Almost black.

I think he means the alloy that wears off the pinion & sticks the to spur gear ...

Swarfega (the stuff with grit in), Manista or Fast Orange scrubbed in with a toothbrush does the trick