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That Brat looks quite descent, seems to be in one piece?
The price seems reasonable as well. Nice find! -Lars Signature now gets correct formatting if you edit it in your Profile. Use normal BBcode if you want.
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Thanks dude, I'm keen to start on this one!
Can you perhaps help me with the following info: 1) The original color code for the body paint 2) What size pinion gear do I use if I want to upgrade to a 540 motor. Thanks |
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For colour codes, visit this page on TamiyaBase.com : www.tamiyabase....ducts.html
For pinion, check out the Frog manual , the Frog has the same gearbox but came with a 540 motor. It looks like 16T for 52T spur gear, 18T pinion for 50T Spur and 19*t spinion for 49T spur] -Lars Signature now gets correct formatting if you edit it in your Profile. Use normal BBcode if you want.
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Last edit: by larbut.
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yes and no - "no", as long as the shell is clean, then paint can go on & will probably stick ok, but on the other had, "yes", because the result is proportional to the amount of time/effort you put in - more effort/time = shinier paint. For example, the Sand Rover I did recently : the paint on this still looks like it's wet - the key parts of getting it that shiny were not only priming it, but very gently rubbing down the primer afterwards (2000 grit wet & dry, done wet), then two heavy coats of clear after the colour coat. This Monster Beetle on the other hand was painted in every way the same as the Sand Rover, except for not rubbing it down after priming - although a bad paintjob, it's not as shiny - it doesn't look as "wet", and reflections in it are nowhere near as sharp. This, on the other hand is my Brat ... it's still a fair job (if I do say so myself ), but that's mainly because of the detailing & dcealling. Note the lack of shine - it's more of a satin finish ... this is due to the paintjob being just a rub down, then straight on with the colour. Up to you really
The following user(s) Liked this: Renier
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