TOPIC:

Falcon#5 wrote:

Some people don't run grease at all in their gearboxes, something which I have recently started doing.
I think it just comes down to personal preference.
But use it sparingly, too much grease will cause too much resistance, reducing speed and run times.

Did you actually start to use grease or stop doing it?

I only stick to the really smooth lubricants with low viscosity.
Which are the boron nitride Tamiya Cera Grease I mentioned before and the silicon based Robbe Fett.
I don't use the thick and 'greasy' stuff anymore.
These new generation lubricants are much better and also it is much easier to clean the gearboxes if you want to rebuild them again and maybe put some new bearings in.

hiya

there is grease in the gearbox already so i'll do the same
after the rebuild i think. After all it has lasted 20+ years hehe

It was very lucky he just got a little burn i agree, he's getting
a full battery training course now

they were NiCd batts and I've been using them for years on rc planes
and never had that happen, the charger i have is an all in one
computerised charger so does LiPo, NiCd and NiMh from the same charger
so would have picked up on the self test if the wrong program was selected.

I'll let you guys know how it goes with the gearbox build when i get the
parts.

And thanks for all your advise.

Rich

Edou wrote:

Falcon#5 wrote:

Some people don't run grease at all in their gearboxes, something which I have recently started doing.
I think it just comes down to personal preference.
But use it sparingly, too much grease will cause too much resistance, reducing speed and run times.

Did you actually start to use grease or stop doing it?

I only stick to the really smooth lubricants with low viscosity.
Which are the boron nitride Tamiya Cera Grease I mentioned before and the silicon based Robbe Fett.
I don't use the thick and 'greasy' stuff anymore.
These new generation lubricants are much better and also it is much easier to clean the gearboxes if you want to rebuild them again and maybe put some new bearings in.

I stopped using it.
It's fine to run nylon gears dry (or metal to nylon contact), but any metal to metal surfaces should be greased. Of which, there are none in a Boomer gearbox.

The newer ceramic and silicone based greases etc as you mentioned are low viscosity, and should be fine.

Bit different to moly greases of old.
Unless of course you want to 'lock' your diff, then load the pinion gears with it!

But they do attack the plastic over time, and make them brittle (Unsure if ceramic grease does )
I think that's why suspension parts are failing on my original Falcon, I used to load them with grease as per instruction manual.

But I'd definately not use any grease on external parts.
It will only attract dirt, and turn into a grinding paste.
My old dogbones and drive cups are testament to that!

fragged8 wrote:

hiya

there is grease in the gearbox already so i'll do the same
after the rebuild i think. After all it has lasted 20+ years hehe

It was very lucky he just got a little burn i agree, he's getting
a full battery training course now

they were NiCd batts and I've been using them for years on rc planes
and never had that happen, the charger i have is an all in one
computerised charger so does LiPo, NiCd and NiMh from the same charger
so would have picked up on the self test if the wrong program was selected.

I'll let you guys know how it goes with the gearbox build when i get the
parts.

And thanks for all your advise.

Rich

That's very strange for the NiCd's to catch fire.
I always thought they were the least volatile of the lot?
You have a modern charger, and have plenty of experience with RC, so must've been a dodgy batch of batteries?

Keep us posted with the build, and throw up some pics if you can!

Falcon#5 wrote:

But I'd definately not use any grease on external parts.
It will only attract dirt, and turn into a grinding paste.
My old dogbones and drive cups are testament to that!

I noticed this too. Thought that it would be good to add a little grease on the dogbones etc.
After one run it had totally attracted a bunch of sand.
Which would achieve the opposite of what the grease was there for!

Falcon#5 wrote:

That's very strange for the NiCd's to catch fire.
I always thought they were the least volatile of the lot?
You have a modern charger, and have plenty of experience with RC, so must've been a dodgy batch of batteries?

Only other reason I can think of for a NiCd shorting out is that it must have been stored for a really long time.
In my experience even packs that have been dormant for years can be easily revived.
Which you wouldn't have to try with other types of batteries.

Falcon#5 wrote:

Keep us posted with the build, and throw up some pics if you can!

I'm also curious for some pics of the Boomerang!

hiya.

i had a look at the batteries and the wires are soldered to the nicad tags
in the normal way but the tags were quite long and bent over the top of the cell
and down the side of the battery.
My impression is that the tags got hot enough to melt the heatshrink on the side of
the cells and short the whole battery out.
Just a guess but it's possible it was a simple assembly error.

I'll get some pics up when my new camera arrives just bought a Lumix
and dying to have a play hehe..

Rich

hiya.
the new camera arrived today so here's the pics
i promised. all clickable thumbs

see why i need some new parts heheh..

Action man didn't apply the handbrake

Still looking good! Except for the dogbone joint - man is that worn!
Tragic what lack of maintenance did to Action Man!

Looks good in blue!
Same can't be said for those drive cups!

My Boomer will be here next week, woohoo!

heheh 20years of wear in those cups
it amazing really. I didn't know
they should have been straight slots
until i started looking for spares.

I have the new gear case's and the new
drive cups, just waiting on the bearings and
other spares.

you'll be glad to know action man is
critical but stable in the field hospital hehehe

Falcon, be nice to know how much is different on the
new boomer or if they are exactly the same ?