Keyword
  • Page:
  • 1

TOPIC:

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71577

  • irondog
  • irondog's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Born to be Wild
  • Born to be Wild
  • Posts: 82
  • Likes received: 50
Hi guys, next project Blackfoot!
​​​​​​Got an original one in good shape, except few things to fix. I'm attaching images, however these are the points I would need some advices:
1) stripping paint on hard body, best product?
2) hard body has the back window cemented, any way to remove it?
3) fix broken parts, best glue to use?
4) chrome parts needs to be stripped and repainted, not sure which chrome color to use to match the original one

Thanks!

 





 
Attachments:

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71578

  • irondog
  • irondog's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Born to be Wild
  • Born to be Wild
  • Posts: 82
  • Likes received: 50
PS: is this body ABS or polystyrene??

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71579

  • Al
  • Al's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Impressive Numbers
  • Impressive Numbers
  • Posts: 1497
  • Likes received: 1736
The body should be ABS.
For paint stripping I’ve had most success with something called Mykal graffiti remover, I’m in the UK. I know a lot of people have used Dot 4 break fluid.
For removing that window, I guess it depends how much glue has been used. You could try soaking it in warm water and then see if you can get a scalpel blade between the window and body and gently work around breaking the bond.
I’d probably go 2 part epoxy on the broken off bit. I’ve seen somewhere on here where someone melts in a metal pin to hold the 2 parts together.
Chrome is really tricky to repair or even just to repaint.

I hope some of this helps, but there are better qualified people on here who know better.
How’s the chassis looking ?
The following user(s) Liked this: Jonny Retro

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71580

  • irondog
  • irondog's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Born to be Wild
  • Born to be Wild
  • Posts: 82
  • Likes received: 50
Thanks for the tips! Chassis is is very good shape, no visible broken parts, but still to be disassembled.....
For painting removal I was looking at the 250ml bottle from Tamiya however it is clearly written to not use with ABS.... So I was looking at the Revell paint remover.....

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71581

I had same matter as you on my bf body. 
easiest is chrome. I used a molotov chrome pen and waited several days to cure.
To strip the paint, there are several methods. Graffiti remover I had some matters with. Another way is the glanzer very efficient. Dot 4 works to. And the last one is  warm caustic soda. 
To glue the body, I used a bi compound glue the black one made to fix headlights on real cars. Araldit make one especially for plastic and it works fine. 

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71582

Glanzer or caustic soda should work to unglue your rear window to
The following user(s) Liked this: Jonny Retro

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 10 months ago #71585

You won't get anything to match the chrome without full on chrome plating them ... that said, I've heard good things about Molotow Liquid Chrome pens, and the refill paint when airbrushed. Reputedly exceptionally stinky though. Hycote Chrome Look aerosol is the best of what I have tried. there's also Alclad.

Basic poly glue (Revell Contacta, etc) or the superthin capilliary action (EMA Plastic Weld, Dichloromethane, Tamiya make something too) is the right stuff to bond the broken parts, but I'd reinforce them with something epoxy based where it won't show too.

That paint looks barely bonded on, TBH I think I'd try some 3M scourers on that first, if not you want a "polycarbonate safe" graffiti remover (and test it on a hidden bit first). IDK about availability in the US. Oven cleaners in the US are still rich in surfactants & caustic soda (lye) & that will fetch the paint off too. Again, test a hidden bit first & definitely use eye protection & layers of gloves. 

ETA - rear window, re-re ones are exactly the same so no worries if you break it - I've pushed some out under thumb pressure, others have just shattered & needed the remains grinding off.

:)
The following user(s) Liked this: stingray-63

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Last edit: by Jonny Retro.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 9 months ago #71867

  • irondog
  • irondog's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Born to be Wild
  • Born to be Wild
  • Posts: 82
  • Likes received: 50
Hi guys, just some updates... Been able to remove the paint with scourers as the paint most of the body was not bonded.... For the rest used clean slate, brushed on part, waited 1min and then paint goes off with the brush... Nice product! Body is now been fixed and primed, waiting few weeks and then paint! Can't wait, body has really nice details! That's the original one with all the Ford details! Thanks all, I'll post when finished!




 
Attachments:
The following user(s) Liked this: caprinut, stingray-63, Gripper107, AndyAus, 1972 LeMansGT Jim, Ducksnuts

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Blackfoot body - strip and fix 1 year 9 months ago #71868

Nice result.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
Moderators: caprinutstingray-63AndyAus
Time to create page: 0.154 seconds
Cookies are required to make this site work. If you continue to use this site you permit us to use cookies.