TOPIC:

The ESC in my TRX-3 seems to have died and I need it this weekend.
The motor in the car is a Team Orion "Orbital 2 Pro BB". I don't know how many turns this has, but I'm guessing it's quite low from what I've found on t'Internet.

I have a working TEU101BK ESC - what is the turn limit on this?
What will happen if I use it on a motor with too low turns?
I'm guessing the motor will pull too much current, overloading the ESC. Does the TEU have protection?

HELP!

I could put another motor in the car, but I'm running out of time!

I think the motor limit is 27t, correct me if im wrong guys. It will work for a bit before it takes the knock. Not sure about protection. Have you got a 27t silver can you could try to see if your burnt it out.

OK,to explain further. The dead ESC (which came in the car) is a GM Racing V12 forwards only ESC. It was working fine last time I tried it (albeit 6 months ago ).

The TEU works fine with a standard silver can. I've just Googled it and you are right, turn limit on the TEU-101 is officially 27 turns, so I'm guessing my Orbital will be too hot for it (my best guess is that it is a 14T double or triple)

So.... I managed to find a nice Orion Havok 23T but this will not work at all with the TEU I would have thought it would work for a while. Maybe there is a problem with this motor, but it works when connected directly to the battery.

So I can either run a standard silver can in the race on Sunday, or pinch the cheapy Chinese ESC out of my son's TL-01 which seem to be bulletproof.

Update: The TEU is working with the Orbital motor that is in the car - for how long though
I think it will be safer to put a higher turns motor, so I need to find out why it will not drive the 23T one.

I think one problem was the cheap ebay servo tester I was using didn't like the voltage from the non-BEC TEU ESC and was doing strange things - 7.2V straight up the jacksie!

Funny enough, last night I had a tamiya msc in my monster beetle with a dirt tuned 27t motor and it wouldn't work. As soon as the silver can went in it works a treat, strange, both 27 turn. Maybe there's electronic trickery at work

Sorry Martin I can't help you. Maybe you could put a smaller motor. Or before clean your motor in the water and test it. And a big bath in the WD40

I've had 101 ESCs "thermal" a couple of times - they just stop & won't provide motor current while they cool down. Gearing & driving style play a part too - but I still don't think you'll get away with a 13/14/17/whateverT motor

Same here, my 101 stops working when it get s warm, then wakes up again once it's cool - I strapped a bigger heatsink to it & it seemed to cope ok with a 17 turn (Albeit in a 1/12th banger).
The "Turns limit" is more an approximation to expected current flow than actual number of turns as far as I've figured - the 101 can't cope with Epic-canned 27 turn motors, & neither can my "No limit" LRP AI, funnily enough though, the cheapy HSP ones don't have a problem with them (Oh yeah, been popping wheelies with my Blitzer).

Quickest fix for the Orbital would be stuff an MSC in the car - officially no turns limit

I think my 23T motor is faulty as the ESC cuts out after only a few seconds running with no load with this motor. It's a shame as it is a nice looking motor. (I'm not particularly worried about performance ATM, but I want it to look nice )
The problem is all of my stuff is second hand, so there are a lot of variables when fault finding.

I'm still curious what the Orbital motor is. Anyone got any idea?

I have got an MTronics 20T esc in my Rough Rider which I could swap with the TEU101.

The "Turns limit" is more an approximation to expected current flow than actual number of turns as far as I've figured

I'm sure you are right. The ESC cannot "know" exactly how many turns a motor is, but will have a current limit due to the components inside.

Edit: I've also found a "LRP V10 Spec 3" in my pile of stuff. This says "15x4" on a label, so 4 winds of 15 turns(?) - another pretty hot motor.

You could prove your 23T by hooking it up to an MSC (Or just straight across a battery) & see if it "Cuts out".
Cutting out is usually weak brush springs or brushes sticking in their holders (Assuming we're only looking at motor faults) - try applying light pressure to the brushes (To force them against the comm) to see if that cures it.

It could also be open or shorted windings (Shorted through loss of insulation due to overheating is more common than out & out "blown" windings), but the condition of the rest of the motor will give it away if this is even slightly likely (eg if it's got an Annsmann sticker on it)