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I made a mockup drop front axle today and angle of styrene chassis looks much better!


I used a 4mm brass rod, 3mm all thread, alloy bits, bolts and nuts.
The part that the brass tube goes through is a rear pivot point for the leaf springs on Taniya trucks.


More clear look.
The chassis is tapped for the M2 bolt and that hinders the axle to rotate.


This looks promissing!


The rake now matches the bottom of the body. Perfect!


The chassis also now meet the area where the styrene beam is bolted to the body. Floor hight now will match more or less the real deal.




And rear..


Now I need to make the chassis rail for the other side and then join them with the body.

Then there was two chassis rails..
And lots of unbolting, driling and bolting later..


First nouckup without any support from Lego bricks..




Still need to true down the Fuch wheels for this side..




Now it ttime for fine andjust the body hight and make the body mount system..

🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤
you'll need a flat4 inside Richard. 

stingray-63 wrote:

🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤
you'll need a flat4 inside Richard. 

Already got one   (resin copy of the Revell 1:9 Kubelwagen engine)

Same as I used for this build many moons ago..
www.tamiyaclub....&id=12108#

I can't wait to see that

I thought I had all the parts to build another resin VW engine, turns out I don't...

Time to drag out my very long term slammed beetle project then...
As you see, the bus build is not my first VW build at all. And yes I like low VW projects lol


Reason is because this has 1 of 3 resin engines I once bought..


79.5mm wide..


Well even after widening the styrene chassis by one flange nut by each side, the engine is too wide to fit.
Chassis can't be any wider because I need space for suspension




As the engine is 1:9 instead of 1:10, it's 10% too big anyway..
Time to either make one myself from scratch, 3d print one or buy one..

 

Today's task was to complete to body mounts to the chassis..

Can't turn back now...




How is the body mounted to the body and how you get it off you may ask?
By these 1.6mm bolts. Here its screwed to the crossmember...


By englrging the hole in the body the bolt head now pass through and you can now remove the body..
These is hidden by the bumper.


Same for the front..


Holes now enlarged..


Body is now resting on the new body mounts






With mockup chassis removed




Naked chassis



Next will either be making the center floor which also will act as side mounts for the body when it's painted.
Or making the suspension..

 

Nicely done. 👍

I'm fan Richard. For your engine, there is one free on thingivers. Made for tamiya m chassis and it fits very well on the beetle body.

Thank you guys!

For the engine I will get one without the tin sorounding the engine, henche the 3d printed file is out of the question.
Also my printer is no more so I have to come up something without needing printing.



I've started on the rear suspension.
I used a 7mm alu tube, some 3mm threaded pipes turned down to fit inside the ttube, styrene for the trailing arms, 3x6x2.5 flared bearings for the arms and some bolts.
For the hub I used some TA04 steering cnuckles that I cut offf the arm.
Tube will be located where the 2mm bolt is today


I had to make a spacer ring out of 0.5mm styrene sheet on each side to take up the space of the thickness of the two bearings as the arm is just 3mm thick itself


The TA04 steering cnuckles is looking hacked, will be fixed when I coat them with epoxy later.'
I used the reinforcement ribs on the cnuckles to my advantage as they now works as splines fitted to the arm.


Also has found the perfect shocks for this project.
Yeah Racing shocks for Axial SCX24. These is 37mm eye to eye.


I also found I have done a design flaw on the chessis.
On the real one the chassis forms a V shape design from mid floor and backwards..
I migth modify my chassis before I start to glue on floors etc...