TOPIC:

Raided the spares bin for different rear body posts, may have trimmed them all 1 hole too short & might need to put a spacer under the steel parts of the magnetic body mounts.

I also decided the wheelarches looked a bit too bulbous & dremelled them back a bit






 

Brooooooop

Looks great and so neat with the magnetic mounts, much better than those bars sticking out the body.

Hmm maybe some way of doing the lunchy. Its got me thinnking

 

Cleared the decks so I could get some fancy finished shots

Yeahhh with the good sound👏👏👏
I love the open bonnet.

I’d like to finish this before the 7th anniversary of its release date

Since parking it up, the beacon pole has got broken, and the winch control board & UBEC I’d earmarked for it managed to get themselves lost. I did have a general idea of where they were likely to be though, so only have to look in 6 crates & properly search of 1 more. That also turned up two 4x4 driver figures (so I didn’t need actually need to buy that one for the Bruiser clone earlier today after all and 5 1:14 vibro unit motors :confused:

Also, no idea about the radio. According to my “Projects” spreadsheet, which is supposed to keep track of stuff like this, I’ve already installed a Turnigy T6a-v2 combo … with the orange graphics the TX wasn’t hard to find, but it’s got a bit of masking tape with “Landy” scrawled on it. My CC-01 builds thread shows the matching RX installed in the Land Rover chassis. 

I know I have a Kyosho 2.4ghz set left over from the Hagglunds build, but it’s only a 4-channel & I know that using the steering & throttle sticks for winch & light control doesn’t work out that well. I really want to keep the Planet TS-2+2 set I bought recently for my forthcoming Bruiser clone build, so have just slapped a bit of tape on it to reserve it.    


I mentioned having a general idea of where things are – TXs that are not in use but may be useful at some point (mostly 2-ch stick 27mhz that aren’t Acoms, TBH) and new (or used, but boxed) radios I’ve got earmarked for future projects are in another 3-4 crate area elsewhere.

One of those was another TS-2+2 set, that according to that spreadsheet has a potential future home – but there’s a bit of blue tape on an NIB FlySky-CT6B set that says otherwise, and the TS-2+2 has not such marking.  

My thinking – past me may have just made a couple of mistakes – if so, in this case, no harm done , even if it’s bad form to have both your primary record keeping, and the redundant set wrong (one just stresses your superiors at audit time, two is a fail), However, if past me wanted to reserve that TS-2+2 set then he should have done so, and has lost out to current me. Future me (who will at that point be an entirely different current me) may well curse current me (current current me, who will at that point be a different past me), but that’s not currently my problem   

TL;DR I have all the bits I need to finish this, after going off on a tangent. At least there wasn’t any maths

Jonny wrote:

My thinking – past me may have just made a couple of mistakes – if so, in this case, no harm done , even if it’s bad form to have both your primary record keeping, and the redundant set wrong (one just stresses your superiors at audit time, two is a fail), However, if past me wanted to reserve that TS-2+2 set then he should have done so, and has lost out to current me. Future me (who will at that point be an entirely different current me) may well curse current me (current current me, who will at that point be a different past me), but that’s not currently my problem   

 

 

Really nice !
 

Waiting on p407 bits, plus i didn't feel up to doing anything involving much skill or thought, so tackled the 2CV yesterday. No step by step photos but it's the same chassis

I've used Scorcher front tyres all round, not very grippy but a more scale look IMO. There's just about enough space to really slam the bodywork if I wanted to, but I'd rather have the wheelnuts visible under the closed rear arches. Body posts are from the kit. It made more sense to be to rotate the rear ones 90 degrees, though the conventional antenna holder placement suffers a little  

All posts are cut down to just above the last hole, meaning I could use the magnetic body mounts without modification.

Wheels need a bit turning of, ideally

I thought the 2CV was just two colours, but no, the bumpers have to be "silver". Modelsport showed the Pro-Line "Aluminum" as out of stock, and the last eBay seller I bought this brand of paint from took an extra week to send for no apparent reason so I was a bit reluctant to use them again. However they were cheaper than the other sellers, who had a lot of negative feedback for being slow _and_ unreliable.   

I couldn't find any any reference to it not being a normal metallic paint - but in use it appears to have only metal flake in it, and no pigment whatsoever. Even after 6 coats at various dilution rates from 0 to 20%, various pressures through different sorts of airbrushes, it was still pretty much transparent. Once backed with my dark grey (8ml 6325-00 White, 2ml 6325-01 Black, 2ml 6324-00 Reducer) it looks pretty good

Spraying the grey was problematic - I used a different brand of optical wipes & there's evidently something undesirable in there.  Reasoning that it wouldn't be much more of a pain to take off a slightly thicker layer of paint if I had to strip it all off & start again, I switched to a SA gravity fed airbrush. After 4 coats the colour looks ok, though it may be a bit speckly due to starting with a DA, external mix airbrush.     

Pale grey & Matte Clear on the outside of the roof to follow.


Aluminum looks ok from the top ...




... but is almost translucent up to the light.




Note spangly, not painted, kraft paper masking:




Masked up for the dark grey:




Shunning of the paint:





Rescued: