TOPIC:

I would leave at least 2 turns between the specification of the ESC and that of the motor myself.
Which isn't too say either of these wouldn't work fine...
I just like to play it safe with speed controllers.
But what kind of motor is that 12T exactly?

Edou wrote:

I would leave at least 2 turns between the specification of the ESC and that of the motor myself.
Which isn't too say either of these wouldn't work fine...
I just like to play it safe with speed controllers.
But what kind of motor is that 12T exactly?

Thanks Edou, I will have a look for an ESC which supports somewhere around 10 Turns. Might aswell play it safe if I'm buying new kit

As for the motor, here is the one I bought, now you know as much about it as I do as I've only taken it out of the box to inspect it etc:

www.ebay.co.uk/...1497.l2649

Oh oh, Ansmann... don't let eddrick or Jonny read that.
This one looks better than a Clash though. Rebuildable possibly?
Here's some specs :

Winding: 12x2
RPM: 32000
Watt: 165
Voltage: 7.2 - 7.4V

About as much as my 17x2 Lrp so that 10T ESC should be fine.

Aaarrrgh NO DON'T DO IT! Jonny will also give you a good telling off for even looking at Annsmann electrics I'm sure! Absolute rubbish....

On the motor front, yes less turns usually means more rpm, but it usually also means less torque. This isn't a problem for something light with small wheels & normally you'd also drop the gear ratio (Smaller pinion etc) to compensate & let the motor rev out.
More "sets" of windings (ie the x2 bit) usually means more torque.
Torque & rpm are related, & usually increasing one, decreases the other.

When you're dealing with something relatively heavy &/or with large heavy wheels, you need more torque to get it rolling & up to speed.

You'll notice I'm saying "usually" a lot - this is because often there are other factors to take into account too, like the brush/commutator timing & strength of the permanent magnets. Battery type & condition, ESC type & rating & the state of your wiring all play major parts in the story too - eg if you're soopa doopa motor wants to be drawing say 20amps for it's maximum acceleration ability, but your battery can only deliver say 10amps instantaneous current, it could mean that the motor never finds its way into its "power band", & you never see any benefit from using it.

Another thing to watch for is the claimed amps rating of ESCs - 9/10 times the manufacturer is wrongly referring to the maximum destructive current of the sum total of all the components, NOT the actual current passing capability of the ESC. A lot of the maximum operational ratings also only apply when said components are mounted on a suitable heatsink, which in the case of ESCs, they never are

BISH1979 wrote:

So although the attached says compatible with 2.4GHz, it should say 'ONLY COMPATIBLE WITH 2.4GHz' as my simple process of elimination has proved.

Either that or it just doesn't like my 5 old schools transmitters / receivers which all work fine with my others cars (with ESC's).

Again, the TEU-106BK is a dual motor speed controller. Be sure to attach a pair of motors to it. If the speed controller has a red 2-pole BAT connector, then it has to be plugged into the BAT or BEC socket of your receiver. If it doesn't have such a connector, it carries the power supply via the speed controller connector to channel 2 of the receiver.

No offense intended. Please let us know if this helps or not.

Regarding motor choice: The King Blackfoot uses a proprietary long 10 tooth brass pinion, from my point of view there's no way of fitting other regular pinions with lower tooth count.





I would like to know if the rebuildable Ansmann motors are any good. They're also sold under the Team C brand by Absima since early 2012.

Yes, you're stuck with fixed gear ratio pinion-wise with the KBF (& others), which is why it would be sensible to choose a high torque motor over a high revving one - you cant match the high rpm power band to the gearbox.

No idea what Annsmann rebuildable motors are like, but if you can get it to bits, you can change the rotor for a good one if it turns out to be pants. Do said rebuildables have adjustable endbell timing too? - that could also help if it turns out to be rubbish & you decide to start swapping/changing parts for better quality ones.

After ranting about Annsmann electrics, I feel I have to point out that they were making switch mode power supplies & battery chargers for industry, a long time before they started pumping out toy cars, & these PSUs etc are good quality & reliable.

I don't have a problem with Ansmann per se, just with the complete absence of torque from their "Clash" motors.