TOPIC:

I agree with you. Silver is better than gun métal on the chassis sides. More gun metal for the body

As mentioned yesterday, I had to think about a way to secure my 2 mm screws. Either by changing then by bigger screws, but the light bucket may not like this, or by setting something better with 3D parts...

I designed 2 parts for this. They will enclose the regular 3mm hole in the chassis to make it usable with my led buckets and the 2 mm diameter screw...



The image is quite big, but it will be small parts. I'll eventually readjust them after 3D printing if the result is not good enough, but that should make it. For the rear side, I'm tempted to review the design I made to include a second set of red lights (the led kit is 4+4 and not 4+2). I'll think about this later...

Today was the time to get into the metal part bag B, which was opened after the dinner.

Step 17 - Setting the right part of the gearbox
I started to put all parts for step 17 and step 18 together on the plate and test the fitting. It moves freely on both side, and there is no issue with the washer in my test. I decided to proceed as per the manual...



Step 18 - Closing the gearbox

I've used masking tape to keep the diff together and avoid loosing the washer in the gearbox (as indicated on the manual, but that works)...


Step 19 & 20  - Attaching the gearbox. on left side and bottom side first, and then on the right side.
The gearbox is now fitted to the chassis


Step 21 - Rear axles
First you have to cut the joint boot. Pro tip : Do not put the left over in the bin (explanations later).

I decided to use the left over of the joint boot as rubber band to  fix the joint boot on the diff and rear axle joints. And it works perfectly.


Step 22 - The rear axles are joining the chassis (I may have forgot to take the picture )
With the metal part on the other side of the suspension shaft, there is no play anymore. and the rear suspension is moving quite well but within a surprisingly limited range.


Step 23 - Pinion gear
I fixed the pinion on the motor (no pictures)

Step 24 - Attaching the motor.
I will use the high gear, 18T pinion, with a 7.54:1 ratio, which will be perfect for the 13.5T motor (maybe a bit short, as per my experience, it could be even higher gearing, as the Turbo Scorpion is perfect with a ratio closer to 7:1 and a 13.5T motor).


Step 25 - Rear dampers cylinders.
They are quite similar in the way they are mounted than the front ones.



Step 26 - Damper oil
I filled them with the oil which is not the same as the front by the way (yellow/400 behind, red/200 for front) and closed them.
They are working smoothly. Left is to see what happens with the springs.

Step 27 - Springs
The springs are added to the rear dampers, and will get ready to be mounted (no picture)

Step 28 - rear dampers joins the chassis and parts metal bag B is over.


I will have to see how the damper reacts with the spring. there is about 8 mm range for the damper between the lower and higher suspension position. The upper position is limited by the rear arm touching the roll cage, but until the wheels are on, and everything in it's a bit early to call this a problem. Time will tell.

Program tomorrow is to get a few 3D prints done for this car, but not sure I'll proceed to the following steps within the weekend. We may have a lot of snow during the night, and I may have to play one of my favorite games tomorrow. I call it Snowkoban




 

After a track indoor session this morning with the M06-Giulia, some finetuning work on the printer, a few failed prints (there was some remains of white PLA around the hot end), a review of the design, my front light buckets are now in their definitive position. The print is not perfect, I'll reprint them later any case in MJF PA12 for a better finish. But at least, now my front led buckets are no longer moving  and they are firmly fixed...



I also printed spring cups and they work as expected (not on the picture at this stage - as I won't publish them on Thingiverse, as I just reproduced the design of someone else on another forum)

I'll publish the parts I can publish on Thingiverse at the end of the build with some parts designed to work on the body shell for the same purpose...

I'm currently printing the rear led holders, and should be able to get final pictures at some point for them as well for the thingiverse page. At the end, I did not move forward on the build, as I have still a lot to do beside this and my printer required me to work out a bit the things...

Rear led attachment were printed in both single and dual led versions...


The print is not perfect, but I don't really care at this stage, as I'm not happy with the result (I can't show the opposite configuration as the left license plate print failed, not really sure why). In any case, I'm not really happy with the result: the side without the license plate looks like unfinished, and the side with the license plate looks like meh... Need to totally rethink this.

Ideas/propositions welcome

I like the inside cage configuration. That protects and the design is fine.  But unsure about the licence plate .

Well, I'm still unclear... Did something with a centered license plate, with a ring that would prevent it to move... Found it a bit too simple and added some details, which I believe may go very well with the motor lines and some details of the gear cover... But it maybe a bit Marui Hunter like, now

If its petg the poor finish could be due to it absorbing some moisture  I have that issue unless I dry the petg for a few hours before use. Otherwise I like the design 

Yes it's PETG. And thanks, I'll take note for next prints, when the current one is finished.
I'll put all the different designs on Thingiverse. Even if I don't like the side models, it maybe of use for someone...
 

Imagine the simplest thing to stick to the baja spirit. They had simple rear trail lights.