TOPIC:

Louisbaby wrote:

Sounds like a top quality guy.

He's a class act indeed. And builds some of the most amazing stuff I ever saw...

eddrick wrote:

Here's a good one for you - I've searched high & low for a source of "Dual head" screws like Tamiya use (ie X-point & flat on the same head) & still haven't found any - have you?

I found some today. Laptop screws that should work better on the battery tray :

Yeah, laptop hardrive screws with torx & allen heads are about (& are usually stainless to avoid magnetism), but you do need to be a bit carefull with them if using in metal tappings as a lot are imperial (UNF, UNC) threads (Not a problem in plastic). It always raised an eyebrow with me that PC fasteners are usually a mixture of 2 types - UNC for the larger ones & M3 for the smaller ones, & once you get down to laptop size, anything goes!
10mm different between front & rear track doesn't sound too bad, looks more the way the pic was taken. It was about the same diffence with my F2, but I'm guessing my car's physically smaller than yours, which made it a pain in my case.
LB - yep, the whole money thing was what made me give up racing in the late 80's. At first it was a laugh for all involved, racing SRBs, quattros, frogs, hoppers etc, then hotshots, RC10s, PB mini-mustangs, optimas etc started turning up & the whole thing got really competitive, & basically the more money you had, the more trophies you took home, plus the more competitive attitude meant more expensive damage for the rest of us just there to have fun

Got another cool envelope with parts in the mail today from RC Santa :


With this I can finish it! And start a new (F103) build strategy at the same time...

We like RC santa & the cool envelopes he brings. Unfortunately he also has access to the bank account...

eddrick wrote:

We like RC santa & the cool envelopes he brings. Unfortunately he also has access to the bank account...

RC Santa's second job is being a banker...

This Santa's for real though, guys.
Sending me just about everything on this car out of RC spirit...

Stage one complete! Basically ready to run :


Now for some new modifications...

VERY tasty! The odd tracks aren't noticeable either (Or rather, work well with that shell)

I think it works quite well too. I like it better than with the regular rims actually...


Gives it a bit of a custom racer look too.
Of course as soon as I get my hands on some of those clinching nuts, I'll fit the Group C hubs and the bigger foams.
Maybe I can make the Goodyear Eagle decals myself.
And what a hop up aluminium wheel hubs would be. They don't exist though...

Not gonna do much with the body at the moment.
Maybe just a bit of a polish and some reinforced aluminium tape on the arches.
Days with better weather will start the real body shop activities...

The front wheel is centered in the wheel arch but the rear seems to be a bit forward...
Body fits perfectly loose on the posts so that's not it.
But I've been polishing some FRP today and it looks like the F103 T-bar also makes the wheel base slightly longer.
So that would be a welcome side effect of the mods I'll be doing on the rear next.

New details will follow soon...

eddrick wrote:

The odd tracks aren't noticeable

Edit - I now realize 'tracks' might refer to the wheel widths but the Group C matches with the F chassis...

Sorry, yes, tracks are usually measured from the middle of the thickness of each left/right wheel, across the chassis. Some say it's actually measured from the midpoints of the wheel bearings, but that doesn't mean anything if you're running deep dish wheels!
I like the foamy wheels you've got on it, gives it almost a Nascar look (Mmmm).
How far out is the wheelbase? (Front to rear wheel centres). If it's only a couple of mm, could you get away with slotting the motor pod mounts? (If F103 bit doesn't sort it).
Buy a lathe - you can have any wheels you like then!