TOPIC:

Love that solar-cat!

funkindemup wrote:

Does anyone know, if there is any difference at the main drive shaft if it is a dog bone, a universal shaft or classic like on the top force? For sure, the orignal one from MR is crap

PS: Is here any thread about online shops for vintage stuff? i know a lot but maybe other doesn't know them or whatever

Here 's a thread discussing a bunch of shops.

As long as you're not using the "coathanger" main drive shaft, any of them is fine...
But I prefer the modified GPM over the dogbone styled one myself.
The latter seems to be a bit vulnerable...

Small order was delievered very fast! Thanks modellbau-seidel.de! Below 24h hours i received the parts
The O-Rings are for less loose rear shafts.




Here are some pics:

New Antena



Steering



Mounts from Dyna Storm (The Mounts at the Wing will follow)


Damaged but working part



Front



The Antenna Cap is a nice detail. Not useful but better looking
Now i'm waiting for GPM Main shaft and Top Force Under Cowl from asia. Motor will come later... Have to pay my new 1:1 Car. Very expensive but without r/c! But whole family can have a seat inside

Oh my, what a project this has become. Very much to my liking.
Reminding me much of my own "before" and "after" pictures when I see the car you started with :



The modifications you made for the FRP chassis and wing work are great.
I eventually went for 3Racing spacers instead of multiple rings...
They make a huge array of alloy ones in many sizes and colours that are quite affordable.
Etamiya and RcMart have them for example.

www.etamiya.com..._1414.html

Doesn't matter for the functinality for course.
Very nice work. A lot quicker than my own project!

I've used the body cleaner on the wing. It's working very nice! Hope the lexan won't get hard. Oooh, reminds me at the revell glue back in time

Currently i have a hole problem. I want to use the alloy wing stay but i have to make bigger holes for those not-plastic mounts.
Have a look here:


Also i have to close the old hole at the body of the old manual speed controller cooler. And... the antenna hole is not at the same position as it is at the MR body

Q1: How can i fill up those not need holes?
Q2: How can i make good holes? With a drill for wood? Any special tool? I don't know,...

Q1 - Araldite (Epoxy resin) would be easiest. Let it thoroughly set, then colour it in with black permanent marker pen (Hole should then be pretty much invisible)

Q2 - carbon fibre is horrible stuff to machine or drill (Like glass fibre). You need high speed steel (HSS) drill bits at the very least (Wood bits will just melt). Wear a mask, don't get the dust in your mouth, nose or eyes. Sweep the dust away, don't blow it.

The rubber thingy on top of the antenna tube is to secure the Rx aerial wire - bend the wire over then fit the rubber cap to secure it

The Lexan-cleaner is very good! Body is looking good after cleaning and it was very easy to remove the color!

I'd cut out a piece of leftover lexan and put that in the hole for the resistor.
Just use some adhesive tape (on the inside) to keep in in place.
The Dirt Thrasher actually has a formed template on the lexan and those instructions in the manual for that...

Have a look around for a body reamer (set) to make accurate holes.

The rest of the lexan is in trash since 20years
Maybe i'll insert the cooler as a dummy and close only the antena hole. Btw i've also destroyed my new wing The holes from the dyna storm mount are not only bigger. They're also have more space between each other... Another hole to closes

I got my Pro-Line wing mounted like I planned but later realised I could possibly have put it more forward.
So maybe I'll put in some extra holes and figure out how to make it look like it was meant to be that way...

Sometimes, live is weird!
Since Months i'm searching the whole www for the mounting parts of the TA01 FRP Deck. Now i've found nearly similar parts at a shop, some meters away from my office! Also, the owner of the shop, is the same as of a off/onroad R/C Track in my town!