TOPIC:

Does he have any sets left?

I can ask, but it was a rest of it

Here's the current status of the MR Body:



'Cause weather is too cold and i can't use cleaner inside, I have to wait for higher temps to finish it. I've done it with open window but ... it's too cold!
The body has original silver/black color inside but white/green from the outside. I want to remove all but the silver color and use an action figure in the cockpit
Maybe i don't leave it silver and color it white from the inside with some racing lines. We'll see.
I'm also thinking about removing the nose from the body that it ends behind the front damper-bridge as it is at current buggys. Might be good/bad?

funkindemup wrote:

...
I'm also thinking about removing the nose from the body that it ends behind the front damper-bridge as it is at current buggys. Might be good/bad?

I don't know, I don't particularly like the "spaceship cockpit forward" design, but chopping the nose off would interfere wih that & might make it even less attractive

Maybe i can't choose because the nose is cracking, as always on MRs.
I also don't like the look since i've earned it but it was the cheapest 4WD at that time!
Without the tires, the MR does exactly look like a space ship
But some cars don't look bad with cockpit forward. But they have real buggy cockpits. It's just the wing at the side

Stick a car/truck body on it - should be possible with just a set of home-made body posts (Have a look at the Thundershot beetle I did for my Bro's son, yeah it's fugly, but you get the idea...)

Today was definitively a BAD DAY!
Firstly, I lost the auction for a nice neo top force
Secondly, The DOT4 killed my manta ray body. Direction trash can.
Somebody has a MR body shell with decals

It would be useful to find out what different ingredients are in DOT3 to DOT4, as far as I was aware it's the same thing? Surely there would be a problem with seals etc where some numpty had put "more aggressive" DOT4 fluid in a "less resilient" DOT3 car braking system? Certainly tastes the same to me... Can't say I've noticed any difference in it's ability to take paint off either.

As for "Does brake fluid damage lexan bodies or not" - I think that debate has arisen from the number of clear plastic shells out there called "lexan" (Polycarbonate) when they're not.
I've noticed recently there are some "High quality lexan" bodies appearing on Ebay, but when you read the description it turns out they're made from "High quality, high impact resistant PVC".... PVC has a habit of shattering with even small impacts, particularly in colder temperatures, & it certainly reacts/dissolves with most solvents, brake fluid too probably.

The "clouding" of lexan by brake fluid has also raised questions with me. After noting that a brake fluid cleaned lexan shell had only clouded where there had originally been paint (ie the windows didn't cloud) I came to the conclusion that it's the paint that attacks & clouds the lexan, but you only see the damage AFTER you've taken the paint off again, & it's not the brake fluid doing the damage at all. Lexan paint is designed to "key" (Read "attack") lexan to help it stick. This keying/attack can only be seen once the paint isn't there any more - you must've noticed how scratches magically disappear after you've painted a shell? Same thing but in reverse.

I also suspect the "brake fluid makes lexan brittle" thing is related to "lexan" bodies that are made from something "not lexan", eg the aforementioned clear PVC, or clear styrene, polyethylene (Unlikely) or "other" clear plastics that are available nowadays, most of which being much cheaper than polycarbonate (Lexan)

Why on earth would a Manta Ray shell react so badly to DOT4?
I've abused a TF with all kinds of chemicals and that stayed in good shape...

Eddrick, I think you might be right on the clouding being caused by the paint.
That was also the conclusion I drew when I treated the Top Force body.
All the clear bits remained clear after treatment...
This is my own example of putting a truck on a Manta Ray chassis btw (on road shock towers though) :

I wanted to test. I played and... I lost
I cionfirm you that Dot4 give "lexan" cracking. On mine, it brocke the nose wich wasn't before. The canopy was very clear and now: all the body internal and external is clouded like in London.
The worst is that the paint is not removed everywhere .
No tamiya's body available in France. Only TBG repro. And it comes from Canada.
It is the last solution...

Any chance the body could have been a repro one made of something not-lexan? - would explain why yours disintegrated & Edou's didn't.

It might even be that (Say) early versions of the car were supplied with proper polycarbonate (Lexan is a trade name, like Macralon) bodies, whereas later ones were supplied with bodies made from cheaper material & called "Lexan" (Because that's the word that people associate with a clear body as opposed to a hard white one) & this cheaper material doesn't like brake fluid