TOPIC:

Nice! 

I started the underguard right after my previous post... And I did not finished it. I let the rear part for later...


I stopped there for 2 reasons : one it was late. Second, I did ask myself what would be the better approach for this part.

This morning before starting my day of work, I had an attentive look at the part. The holes are perpendicular to the bottom plan (all the holes of this part are actually this way. This makes not much sense in the context of the usage, but I'm doing it to get as close as possible of the original... So basically, I can set it all from the bottom plan, and just do extrusion from there... Which I did after my day of work...


Once there I put it on the chassis, for a check. There was one mistake on the chassis, which I quickly corrected.


I'll need to take care of the top fixation of the front gearbox and the front shock towers next...

I can't understand how you model all these parts in so low time.  That's crazy.  And that's awesome. 

The top fixation of the front gearbox is likely the most complex part to model on this chassis


There is simply no way to take a single measure easily. Everything has to be derived from what is around and you need what is around to measure it...
Fortunately, I have the Ninja chassis nearby.


Then I put the front gearbox, the chassis and all the parts around and started to deal with the top plane...


Next is about defining the sides... Idea is a loft (but I redid it differently from the picture because of a mistake I did)


I then applied the holes and reinfocement before pulling the axis of the front gearbox input to derive the path for the shaft...


And here we have the gearbox settled on the chassis... This part took me more time than the chassis itself. I believe the rear part is slightly easier to deal with as it is definitely easy to measure...


Next front shock towers before moving to the rear....

This morning, before my work day, I had a quick check on the bumper : I corrected a .1 mm issue on it (i'm not even sure it is preventing it to be mounted, but I corrected it for proper clearance - I'll upload the new version on Thingiverse and Cults3D next week-end).


After my day of work, I did focus on the front shock tower. This part is almost easy when you have the right approach and you keep in mind you need to use different bodies to apply the cuts before assembling the bodies together. Compared to the previous part, it is definitely easy... And each time I'm doing a part like that it goes faster...


No need to check it mounts on the chassis as it is built on...


I did the arms very quickly, using the same principles...


I did not put the arms yet, I'll probably do this later on, once the rear structure is there as well... However I added the body mounts on the front side...


Speaking about the rear end of the chassis, I took all the parts out of the box. I will need to raid the shogun box for the gearbox sides as the one on the plate currently have their bearings in. It's a small detail, and I'll do this tomorrow once back from the office...

Tonight, I did only one part... Measurement is hard as one of my friend would say

I first made a sketch which holds 90% of the rear gearbox left side. It was hard to measure, and I have to pull a gear calculator and count the gears teeth in order to make sure I have the right measurements...


I did not take a picture, but the profile of the gearbox match 100% of the gearbox profile and holes using the right zoom level on the screen : thta's always a good sign

And here is the rear gearbox left side completed.



Next is about the right side, but it will take very much less time than for the left side...

After the left side of the rear gearbox, I did work out the right side...

Not difficult when starting from a projection of the left side...


I even detail down the lock for the cap to make sure the pinion cap is not going to do  360° rotation... 


After this I took car of the output cap. With a two bodies approach it is quite easy to build...


Once this was done, I dealt with the arms supports, which are taking the gearbox in sawdwich...


Next will be about shock tower and underguard...

Crazy

A part which you have a single plan to define the main measurement is definitely easy... That is the case of the rear shock tower (which is different from the Shogun one, as this one is having shock fixation lower than on Ninja and Coors). To be noted as well than the Coors introduced additional holes for the body moun fixations under the Shocks fixation tool (and some of the Ninja black shock towers have the same additional holes but it doesn't appear on the first ones).


Next is about the rear underguad... It's an easy part, and there is not much questions to deal with when you have other parts around in already...


And here is the rear gearbox ready to be added to the chassis...


The top fixation is easy compared to the front one, as both top and bottom are relying on parallel plans, which makes the things realy easier than for the front one. I won't detail the process for this (and yeah, I had to pull the bathtub in to get it done)


Once this was done, I did got back to the chassis file, and added the rear gearbox components, and the rear Coors body mounts.



Now that we have the rear gearbox it's easy to understand the impact of the V2 battery door versus the V1 version :



Next will be about suspension, transmission, steering...

After my  last post, I did focus on all parts attached to suspension arms...

I started by the rear carrier, and front C-hub...


There was two version of the front C-Hub, as mentioned earlier in the thread, the first one, which was delivered until the Shogun release, and the second one which allowed a different placement of the shock on the Shogun...



I did joint those with the arms


I then worked out the tie rods for the upper arms, with their pivot balls... Sometimes Fusion is messy when you do joints on unattached parts...


Once this was done, I added this to the chassis... and it is now time to add those suspension limiter which are very specific to the Thnderbird Coors and allow for both on road and off road use...


And here we are... And it's not really working in Fuison360 as it requires first a pivot ball on the bottom, and it's not really a cylindrical on top side...



This mean it may be a bit difficult to show the car in both configuration without making different files with a different fix setting for each... Need to think about this