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Thanks buddy.
For your ta, try a bubble of liquid thread lock. That saved my cc01. |
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The dismantling is why you loose screws. The tamiya thread lock is soft.
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IMO threadlock is a poor idea on an RC car, thinking of how difficult Wild Willys & SRBs + the like are to dismantle where the manual says to use it ... you certainly shouldn't be using it on plastic, correct torque & the correct sort of fastener & the correct materials are the way to go - though I accept with Tamiya cars, that often isn't the case.
I'm not that familiar withe that chassis, I imagine the failure point was a self tapping step screw through the plastic top arm & into the equally plastic shock tower? IMO that's a design barely suitable for assembling the once & leaving alone - there's a significant probability of the plastic cracking as or shortly after you out the screw in. I certainly wouldn't be looking at putting another step screw in as a repair - 3mm ID brass tube cut just longer than the hole in the top arm, drill the shock tower hole out to 3mm, M3 washers at strategic points, an M3 locknut (or at least an M3 flange nut) + an M3 machine screw of the correct length to hold it all together, repeat for the other end of the top arm, tehen the other side of the car. NB, not crashing into things and definitely not carrying on drving after you do also really helps (also looking at the front bodymounts, disconnected steering balljoint, missing shock spring & bottom collar, etc).
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Jonny Retro, you got it, that's the problem. I did not dismount and reassemble the car so many times that it would justify the bolts jumping like this. I'm a fan of nylon lock nuts and I'll take your tips into consideration. As soon as the reconstruction of my "cave" is finished, I will spend some time thinking about a definitive solution.
Try to convince my son that after having an accident he cant drive the car To be honest he's pretty careful, I think the vibrations are loosening the bolts. |
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Nice rims buddy.
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