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Little bits & bobs of progress, but I still haven't really "finished" any one aspect of the RV build yet, for example I've had to fiddle with the suspension again as it was still sagging at the rear & lifting at the front, shorter lower eyes on the front & added "bump stops" have helped ... but now it's never going to run on anything but really smooth tarmac, so I really should have had the rear axle apart to unlock the diff...
Other than that, I've done little bits & intermediate steps that needed doing, but nothing I can really point to & call progress ... 1 & 2: templates for wallpaper & wood internal panels; 3: DIY wallpaper: find image online, tweak for colours & print on white vinyl; 4: wiring extended & ready for soldering & heatshrink; 5: believe it or not it still all works Next step is to put it all back in again & check I've got enough space for wiring runs behind/under interior units; 6: lenses - 3 coats of clear red & clear orange, + 1 of "smoke" on the reversing lights; 7 & 8: detail greeblies all glued on (I think the sides look really plain at the moment, but there's edge details to go on, plus paint, vinyl stripes & curtains to go in, so it shouldn't look drab when finished), also made the front indicator fittings, two more hubcaps for the trailer, stench pipe topper, and removed the roof rails as they just weren't working for me. In other news (& back to the original purpose of this thread) - I'm hoping to paint the body for the proper Blackfoot today |
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Any chance you could move the battery location further forward? under the bonnet maybe, to help balance out the driving weight? I can't help but think that she has a big badword which once fully loaded will cause ploughing If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem mate
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That's a lot of wire, it must weigh a ton by itself!
You probably would have been better with leaf springs at the rear but I don't know if that's even possible on this chassis? |
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Another option might be PCB headers. They come in V small sizes, & some versions have locking tabs on the sockets.
Shame you couldn't turn the commands into a data signal, then transmit it on coax & use "F" connectors - they'd be secure & look scaley. Brainstorm.... I once saw a homebrew "Lamp-out" warning system someone had fitted to a 2CV, that comprised of a bundle of fibre-optic cables, one for each lamp on the car, leading back to the dashboard - maybe do something like that? - have a lightboard to generate the various lights, then fibre-optically transmit the coloured light to the various locations on the trailer
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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How about it Jonny? Up for some leaf springs?
I for one looked at my CC01 Mu & wondered if that was the original intention for that chassis, Tamiya seem to have gone all-out making the chassis look nearly true to scale, then appear to have done their normal trick of bottling out & lashed up some god-awful trailing arm arrangement which "sort of works so it'll do". Most 1:1 pretend 4x4s of the CC01's age have live rear axle with leaf springs, & torsion bar sprung independent wishbones up front. From what I've seen, old 4x4 F150s had front & rear live axles, leaf sprung at the rear & hilariously long coil springs up front, dunno about 4x2 versions but I'll bet they were wishboned up front & leaf sprung at the rear
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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LOL - I didn't think 1970's American RVs had CAN bus ! F connector would be too big surely? SMA would be better: |
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I was thinking the "F" connectors like they use with sky boxes etc, but now you mention it, the coax connectors used in wi-fi/pootas/phones are pretty tiny... Kinda misses the point a bit though, you still need to be able to stick wire to them, or already have wire stuck to them that you can hack about, AND be able to transmit all your signals down a pair of wires (ie data) or have enough bits of wire/pins to transmit all your different digital pulses
For simplicity, you kinda need the smallest pre-wired multipole connector you can lay your hands on (Preferably with some kind of locking arrangement), & if it looks something like a trailer socket, that would be spectacular! I reckon portable AV stuff is the place to be looking.... I think the smallest multipoles with a locking device (Screw-ring, bayonette etc) is probably on dosing pumps or pH probes, but you'd be talking mental money for that kind of kit, & they're only glorified mini-DINs (PS2, S-video etc)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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That's always an option, some sort of custom shaped pack to fit under the bonnet. The problem really is with overall weight though, I'm not too unhappy with the weight distribution |
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I'm pretty sure it's doable ... I wanted to have a solid axle & propshaft setup but beyond that, I'm not that bothered about 100% chassis realism. The main problem with the stock rear end setup with the extra weight here is that by the time you've got springs hard enough to support it, the long lower links start bending. I'm thinking of replacing the bendy plastic parts with aluminium; I've seen off the shelf replacements but they just don't look tough enough - I have some 1/2" x 1/4" (12.7mm x 6.35mm) bar on order |
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Work continues - Blackfoot body has had more primer, been sanded, had two coats of BMW Sapphire Black (before I remembered that I'd meant to do it just plain gloss black ... clearcoat, then masking for matt black for the load cover.
On the RV, I've come to the conclusion that I'll never be able to fit out the interior through the roof openings, so the roof is now held on by M2 x 6mm screws (I didn't have quite enough ). I've also completed one aspect of the RV (hooray! ) - the soft furnishings. Tackiness and clashing nature is deliberate - remember that the 1970s didn't end until at least 1983 and are also know as the Decade That Taste Forgot, or "The Cleave Age" |
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