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Bearing's 100od x 62id x 65L, it's 2 opposing taper roller bearings sharing a common double race. They're ultra high precision bearings & manufactured to suit only the Colchester Chipmaster lathe. Apparently the rollers & races are matched too, so you can't (Or rather shouldn't) swap the bits around. The housing itself has special cutouts & holes to suit the oilways in the headstock. The bearing HAS to run in hydraulic oil as normal oil would make it overheat due to the tight clearances/tolerances.

Yeah, I like black ash stuff, & it's cheap cos no-one else does. Scored an entire 2 bedroom's worth of furniture in the stuff, hacked it up to make lots of shelves & cupboards & tables etc for the spare room to turn it into my "lab". The Enterprise has less specialist equipment....

Did a bit of work on my spare willy helmet ...








Tyres still reek of solvent, but are sucking up the gylcerine well ...





Filler on the body ...




I've was thinking that the body must have a crack in it somewhere, it just sounded a bit wrong, not as bad as a plate with a crack in it, but similar ... anyway, I finally found it:

Weather is still not reliably up to painting, so had another go at the world's mingingest wheels ... 3 were just badly chewed up, but the 4th has a 90 degree chunk - and a further 90 degrees badly cracked - that need gluing back together:





Outside of the same wheel has a chunk completely missing:






... so I squared off the edges, made an inlay out of scrap ABS, and glued it in:










I decided the outside edges had just too much damage to ever be brought back, so machined off 1.5mm ...






... then glued on bits of styrene sheet & left overnight, weighted, to set:





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Obviously the square edge needs some work - I made it octagonal with a craft knife, then closer to round with a Dremel, before machining the outside round again:










Machining the inside took an awful lot of work & remedial work, so TBH I whizzed the excess off the other 3 with a craft knife











....

Lots of finishing & sanding later, the wheels are looking quite good, compared to where I started ... but as I'm leaning towards using them with the correct tyres when the car is on shelf duty - and using the better (and therefore tougher) wheels with the wrong tyres for running - it means making them look as pretty as possible ... which means lots of filler:










That's it for the time being

Got a guide coat of primer on the body, it needs a little tickling up but not much ... driver is ready to paint, and as it's the only "indoor" thing I have to do ATM (apart from more stripping down & cleaning of future projects, which I really don't want to do as it add to the chaos here, and lots of rubbing down of filler - which I just don't want to do) I thought I'd get on with it ...





Base colours are 2 coats each of XF-8 Flat Blue, equal parts X-7 Orange & X-21 Flat Base, as per the manual, and XF-69 NATO Black...





Highlights/lowlights are white/black added to the blue for the suit, white/XF-9 Hull Red for the gloves...





... Washes are watered down Hull Red & XF-50 Field Blue.

Holy coming together JR awesome effort with the wheels, they certainly look 100% better and as always you haven't disappointed with your painting skills,good job on the driver (how big are the gloves )

andyaus wrote:

Holy coming together JR awesome effort with the wheels, they certainly look 100% better and as always you haven't disappointed with your painting skills,good job on the driver (how big are the gloves )

Thanks

I'm quite happy with my shiny red helmet ...






I also thought I'd show you my tiny nuts...





In order to use them as them as surrogate K8 steering widgets, I've shaved my nuts:






I don't have any double entendres re the (unusable) number plate decal:

Zero weather, snow, & intermittant power etc is really compromising what I can do ATM - so I decided to strip what's left in the box ... Note the 4 _rear_ M38 wheels





I did revise by bid heavily upward, thinking there would be some value in the M38 tyres & body - the body is acutally pretty good - even the fragile front grill seems to be intact, but the roll bars are a bit gouged (inexplicably, the lights aren't), one of the cross bars is broken, and the driver & luggage are really poorly painted ...







White bumper is present - but broken badly gouged & discolored ...




Switch boot is a very dry & rotten...





Front spiltter is very good - but threadlock had been used & the screw heads ruined by someone's cack-handed attempt to undo them ... I had to drill them out






Rx battery holder harness has had the plug cut off ... a mismatched plug was loose in the mechanism box:





Other than the loose MSC & the RX battery harness, there wasn't anything else in the mechanism box ... I just mention it as the seller has said they didn't know it it worked or not as they didn't have a "controller" or battery ... let's see - no RX, no servos, no servo holder, motor wires not connected - I'd say it was pretty safe to say the car wasn't going to work
Anyone feeling uncharitable would say there was some lying or stupidity was going on there.



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Rear edge of upper gearbox is heavily gouged...





More chewed up fasteners ...





Gears are all very clean ... clutch didn't need to come apart but I was curious









No idea what happened here...





I must have had to drill out fully half of the metal to metal joint fasteners, thanks to threadlock & apparently some ignorant gibbon trying to undo them with a spoon ...





At least my finger is happy...




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