TOPIC:

Crazy wrote:

Nope you didn't mention that one re the 20amp.

Might try the psu and have a chat with the Electritian about it.

I should have done my own research anyhow

Can u suggest a universal charger that wouldn't require the 20 amp connection?

Now I feel bad - All (Most) top end chargers are 12v or thereabouts so that they can be used at race meets I guess.
Either way, finding 200watts is not difficult, an old car battery, a small lead acid battery of some sort? - An old computer PSU converted (Loads of articles about how to do this on google).
Or they are approx

Don't worry dreadly, still seem like a great charger, I have used a psu to run a car radio before.
Hope fully won't be that tricky.
Charger has all the bells and whistles.

Would you recommend a good mains charger?

Crazy wrote:

Don't worry dreadly, still seem like a great charger, I have used a psu to run a car radio before.
Hope fully won't be that tricky.
Charger has all the bells and whistles.

Would you recommend a good mains charger?

To be honest I haven't found a good mains charger for years - I use a plug in 1A Fusion Delta Peak to relieve the load when I have lots to charge... --> www.modelsport....ucts/39235 But it will take a few hours for a modern NIMH battery.

But this one will do a 'proper' fast charge on mains, but it does not have any of the fancy functions that the Ansmann extreme has and you cannot move to LIPO in the future if required.
www.modelsport....ucts/37637

Crazy wrote:

...

Jonny, when I change the motor do I need to upgrade any of the gearing?

All the original mechanical gearing in in the car and appears to be working with the good old fashioned thumb controller for driving....

I think we need to clarify on what you mean by "gearing" - I think what you're referring to is not gearing (though I can see why you'd call it that) - it's an MSC - a Mechanical Speed Control, or more fully, a 3 step forward and reverse electromechanical speed control...

... If I've got that right, assuming it's clean, has no scoring, burning or pitting evident, and the top plate is not bent, then you can still use it with a 23turn motor, maybe one a bit faster too... but TBH unless you're planning on restoring it and leaving it on a shelf I really would suggest you think about replacing it with an ESC.

If the radio gear works fine, then there's no pressing need to replace that - but we would need to know what radio it is before recommending an ESC - I would guess you have an Acoms Techniplus mk.3 radio set (see here ) - the main thing is, does the receiver have the letters "BEC" anywhere on it? It may or may not have, depending on the precise age of the set

I have a Graupner power supply myself that is a good match for the Lrp charger. Wasn't all that expensive.
There is a chance I'm slightly talking past the subject. Missed a lot of this topic and just read up.


Btw - would it really be so very unlikely to revive a NiCad from 1985?
Forget about NiMHs though...

Hi Dreadly,

Model sport were good enough to change to the smart charger to the Fusion Vector NX85 Delta Peak AC/DC Charger
you recommended.

www.modelsport....ucts/37637

so were back on track.

Edou, yes have changed from the smart to the nx85 now.
why do you say forget the NI-MH's

Would you believe i got the NI-Cad from 1985 to hold a charge.

Jonny,
Yes, when i say gearing i to refer to both the MSC and the gearbox/cogs/bearings etc(dont want the new sport motor doing damage)(be patient im learning the lingo)

The Radio is AP227 Mk3 Techniplus alright, Not sure of the "BEC" marking will check later.
From a use point of View, i think im going to do it up with as many original parts as i can then, stick it on the shelf, only run it just to keep it alive and kicking. might not even change the motor depending on yer thoughts...........

thanks for the feeback guys, its a great help, yer costing me more money every day.

Another question,

what is the best products for cleaning parts. plastic, rubber, metal. dont want to use anything too corrosive. are spirits ok? (white) not Jameson

Crazy wrote:

...

Edou ...
why do you say forget the NI-MH's


Would you believe i got the NI-Cad from 1985 to hold a charge.

...

Meaning that an old Nimh battery will never come back from the dead ... but a good Nicad, as long at it hasn't leaked, warped or corroded internally can still be sound.

Crazy wrote:

...

Jonny,
Yes, when i say gearing i to refer to both the MSC and the gearbox/cogs/bearings etc(dont want the new sport motor doing damage)(be patient im learning the lingo)
...

The gearing - the ratio of how many rpm the motor makes compared to the wheels - depends on the number of teeth on the motor pinion ... the Hotshot has two useful options, a 13T (Tooth) and a 15T pinion - if you have a 13T pinion in there, and it's not too worn then that will be fine ... if it's clapped out or is a larger size, I'd change it - the official Tamiya part is # 3515001 ... however, if you are going to buy a new one, it's worth finding a steel or brass one instead - you need a 0.8 module (or 32 dp, which is close enough to be practically interchangeable), 3.[/i]something[/i] mm internal bore, and of similar overall length ... I (or someone) with point out something suitable if you need it ...

The rest of the gears and shafts they run on, provided they're not overly worn or damaged, should be fine. I'd definitely recommend proper ball bearings though.

The MSC, provided it's clean & tidy, should be ok for the occasional run - they were the norm for years, after all

Crazy wrote:

...
The Radio is AP227 Mk3 Techniplus alright, Not sure of the "BEC" marking will check later.
...

This is only really important if you want to use an ESC ... you can use one either way, but which one might be different

Crazy wrote:

Another question,

what is the best products for cleaning parts. plastic, rubber, metal. dont want to use anything too corrosive. are spirits ok? (white) not Jameson

I wouldn't use any solvents if I could help it ... though I have used Isopropanol for cleaning off really resistant servo tape/sticker smeg


"Best" cleaning IMO for small parts - including motors, fasteners etc - is warm water & a lot of fairy liquid in an ultrasonic tank (rinse & dry thoroughly after though).

Anything that won't fit in the tank, or needs scrubbing (esp. tyres) is better off going in the sink with Bio wahing liquid, then being scrubbed (with a tooth brush) with lots of fairy liquid.

Thanks for that Jonny.