TOPIC:

Jonny wrote:

Crazy wrote:

...

Edou ...
why do you say forget the NI-MH's


Would you believe i got the NI-Cad from 1985 to hold a charge.
I have never managed to achieve this, although to be fair it's usually because a single cell in the pack is corroded/leaking etc.. So a working pack is not outside the realms of possibility, I have just never seen it

...

Meaning that an old Nimh battery will never come back from the dead ... but a good Nicad, as long at it hasn't leaked, warped or corroded internally can still be sound.

Yes, sadly I have found that when NIMH's go to the big Tamiya shelf in the sky, they never come back even using the so called 'fix' method of flashing with a high-voltage

Crazy wrote:

...

Jonny,
Yes, when i say gearing i to refer to both the MSC and the gearbox/cogs/bearings etc(dont want the new sport motor doing damage)(be patient im learning the lingo)
...

The gearing - the ratio of how many rpm the motor makes compared to the wheels - depends on the number of teeth on the motor pinion ... the Hotshot has two useful options, a 13T (Tooth) and a 15T pinion - if you have a 13T pinion in there, and it's not too worn then that will be fine ... if it's clapped out or is a larger size, I'd change it - the official Tamiya part is # 3515001 ... however, if you are going to buy a new one, it's worth finding a steel or brass one instead - you need a 0.8 module (or 32 dp, which is close enough to be practically interchangeable), 3.[/i]something[/i] mm internal bore, and of similar overall length ... I (or someone) with point out something suitable if you need it ...

The rest of the gears and shafts they run on, provided they're not overly worn or damaged, should be fine. I'd definitely recommend proper ball bearings though.
Bearing replacements allllll the way.

The MSC, provided it's clean & tidy, should be ok for the occasional run - they were the norm for years, after all

I would politely add that in my humble experience of having rebuilt many of these it would be a good idea to give the contacts a cleanup with a little fine grade #800 - #1000 wet&dry and then give it a good smear of Silicon Grease to prevent pitting and corrosion due to arcing www.ebay.co.uk/...35bbe95231 or Contralube www.ebay.co.uk/...19d754585c..

Crazy wrote:

...
The Radio is AP227 Mk3 Techniplus alright, Not sure of the "BEC" marking will check later.
...

This is only really important if you want to use an ESC ... you can use one either way, but which one might be different

A lot of modern esc units have very different operating traits, my personal preference is for the type that brake in reverse then when the wheels have stopped will automatically go into reverse. Some types only brake in reverse, then require you to activate reverse again in order to actually go backwards. (Did any of that make ANY sense?)
I like this one... www.modelsport....ucts/31775 if you remember to go forward when power is first applied, and at

If you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks for it to turn up from China, you might consider this:

Very cheap and works fine on standard motors.

Martin wrote:

If you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks for it to turn up from China, you might consider this:
Very cheap and works fine on standard motors.

Ok, If you can explain what this mean :-

The use of low-resistance field-effect inner tube ?

Guys
Ok rather than buying all these parts which is dam expensive I have bought a second original hotshot in good condition.
I'm going to keep my own with original hotshot for now. And stick on a shelf.

The second car doesn't have any internals, servos/ receiver/ switch/ transmitter or ESC etc.

So as i said i did buy a sport tuned 540. 23T and the nx 85 charger

I know dreadly you suggest the ESC above from model sport.
But if I change the bearings and the pinion.........
Can you recommend a new full kit ESC, servos, transmitter, receiver, switch.
Should I change the motor to a brushless one?


Regards & thanks
J.

Bit slow off the mark, my apologies...

As far as I'm aware, the original Hotshot was supplied with a special receiver switch (Because there's no room for a dedicated receiver battery). This special switch is effectively the "BEC" you're looking for, & can be used with ANY radio gear (ie doesn't matter if your receiver is a BEC one or not).
- have a look at the receiver switch fitted to the car. If it's still got this special switch, it is fitted with a small circuit board witha couple of components on it. This is a built-in voltage dropper, to convert the 7.2V main battery voltage to 5V for the receiver & servos.

Re: ancient NiCds - I use them regularly... I'm always buying up NiCd packs from the early 80s & rarely have any trouble bringing them back to life. Trick is to stay away from "high capacity" ones (Greater than 1500mAH), stay away from cheap/generic makes. The ones most responsive to being reclaimed are Tamiya, 1200mAH-1400mAH.
To reclaim - flatten the battery completely with a car headlamp bulb (Like, leave it another 5 mins after there's no more glow). Then, fully charge it on an old-style charger (Resistor-loaded, clockwork timer type). You'll find the pack will get gradually warmer, then start to get much warmer fairly quickly - this is the point to take it off charge. Usually this is around 30-45mins, depending on how poorly the battery is. Charge rate should be 3-4 amps if it's ok, 2 or less if it's "tired". Much more than 4 amps for any length of time would suggest an internal short in at least 1 of the cells, so turn it off & either locate/fix the dead cell, or bin the pack.
IMMEDIATELY after charging, run the pack flat in the car (Until it won't move any more) then completely flatten the pack with your big bulb.
Charge it again, flatten it again.
Repeat this several times in quick succession & you should find the battery has magically come back to life.
You'll find the pack will get fairly warm... best let it cool a bit before recharging.
A good battery will show an initial "kick" on your ammeter when you first plug it into the charger from flat.
A good battery will run at full power for a short(ish) time (Around 5 minutes) then go almost instantly flat. If the car ambles around for ages at reduced speed, getting gradually slower, the battery either needs conditioning as above, or binning if you've already tried that.

DON'T try the above method with anything other than NiCds, it'll damage most modern batteries, particularly Nimh & lithium-based.

In my own personal experience, delta-peak chargers cause "memory-effect" in NiCds, & you'll struggle to get that type of charger to properly charge a poorly NiCd pack. (Some really intelligent ones will even refuse to start charging a poorly pack).
Again, in my own personal experience, don't get Nimh packs warm as it will kill them forever.

MSCs are fine as long as you keep them clean & your radio is working ok, but are prone to fire & runaways if you have dirt, dodgy wiring, interference/iffy radio.
Power delivery is usually in 3 distinct steps. Pretty much any motor can be used with them, but more power means you have to keep the MSC cleaner to avoid problems.

Most modern ESCs will automatically stop the car if there's a radio fault. The power delivery is usually smooth & step-less. They can be restrictive/expensive when looking at upgrading your motor. Most are sensitive to correct wiring polarity & motor size. IF they go bang, they usually do it in a spectacular fashion involving smoke & fire. In extreme cases, some failures can destroy your receiver.
If you want a cheap one to try, the one suggested above is fantastic for the money (I've had several & have just ordered another)

Thanks for the advice Eddrick, apreciate it.

Dreadly/Jonny,

You may have not see my post late last night.

I have bought a second 1985 Hotshot. it doesnt have Radio/Reciever/Servos/etc, you say you have upgraded a few hotshots in your time.

My original car from 1985 has all the original parts, one or two items broken, going to take a few bits from the second car, to create one shelf Queen for safe keeping.

then upgrade the second with new Bearings/pinions etc would really appreciate if you could tell me what i compatible kit i could get?

as i prevously said i have bought a RS 540 Sport tuned 23 turn they recommemd the TEU-101BK ESC,

Dreadly you suggested the Modelsport UK Sniper RV-20 Auto #MSRV20A but its says this is for 20 turn limit. I have also got the 7.2v NiMH 3700mAh Rechargeable Battery Vapextech and the Nx 85 Charger which model sport kindly switched for me.

1. ESC & Switch (if Necessary)
2. Reciever/transmitter
3 Hand Controller
4. Servo(s) (only one now)??
5. Anything else to complete.

Just want to get it correct as there is limited space in the Hotshot's body to fit all this sh.. stuff.

Regards
J (Crazy)

Martin
Only saw this now Apple didnt dispay the link
Thanks for that
Maybe, if you could you could comment on the question below.
Regards

Crazy wrote:

Thanks for the advice Eddrick, apreciate it.

Dreadly/Jonny,

You may have not see my post late last night.

I have bought a second 1985 Hotshot. it doesnt have Radio/Reciever/Servos/etc, you say you have upgraded a few hotshots in your time.

My original car from 1985 has all the original parts, one or two items broken, going to take a few bits from the second car, to create one shelf Queen for safe keeping.
Good idea, now the bug is taking hold, await you post to say you now have a third and then what next

then upgrade the second with new Bearings/pinions etc would really appreciate if you could tell me what i compatible kit i could get?
A chap on eBay sells kits, rcbitz I think? Not the cheapest but good enough.

as i prevously said i have bought a RS 540 Sport tuned 23 turn they recommemd the TEU-101BK ESC,

Dreadly you suggested the Modelsport UK Sniper RV-20 Auto #MSRV20A but its says this is for 20 turn limit. I have also got the 7.2v NiMH 3700mAh Rechargeable Battery Vapextech and the Nx 85 Charger which model sport kindly switched for me.
Yes, the turns go down for more power, so a 20turn esc will be fine for a 20, 21, 23+ etc...but not a 19turn motor.

1. ESC & Switch (if Necessary)
2. Reciever/transmitter
www.modelsport....cts/368278
3 Hand Controller
4. Servo(s) (only one now)??
Yes, one servo for steering, I prefer these... www.modelsport....cts/359784 but others will probably and rightly say a standard Servo will be fine, such as this www.modelsport....ucts/13907
5. Anything else to complete.

Just want to get it correct as there is limited space in the Hotshot's body to fit all this sh.. stuff.

Regards
J (Crazy)

Thanks very much, appreciate your replies

Yes, (I thought Golf was addictive) already looking for something wild to trash around.

you may hate these but whats your thoughts on the Traaxas Rustler VXL or HPI E-Firestorm flux.

Crazy wrote:

Thanks for the advice Eddrick, apreciate it.

Dreadly/Jonny,

You may have not see my post late last night.

I have bought a second 1985 Hotshot. it doesnt have Radio/Reciever/Servos/etc, you say you have upgraded a few hotshots in your time.

My original car from 1985 has all the original parts, one or two items broken, going to take a few bits from the second car, to create one shelf Queen for safe keeping.

then upgrade the second with new Bearings/pinions etc would really appreciate if you could tell me what i compatible kit i could get?

as i prevously said i have bought a RS 540 Sport tuned 23 turn they recommemd the TEU-101BK ESC,

Dreadly you suggested the Modelsport UK Sniper RV-20 Auto #MSRV20A but its says this is for 20 turn limit. I have also got the 7.2v NiMH 3700mAh Rechargeable Battery Vapextech and the Nx 85 Charger which model sport kindly switched for me.

1. ESC & Switch (if Necessary)
2. Reciever/transmitter
3 Hand Controller
4. Servo(s) (only one now)??
5. Anything else to complete.

Just want to get it correct as there is limited space in the Hotshot's body to fit all this sh.. stuff.

Regards
J (Crazy)

Bearings - I would suggest you use rubber shielded bearings anywhere exposed to the outside, and regular ones inside gearboxes... I had hoped to point you to a link to a kit for that, but couldn't find one, so I'd suggest this seller/listing on ebay:
850 metal x 5 (4 GBP for 5)
1150 metal x 3 (4 GBP for 5)
1150 rubber shielded x 14 (10 GBP for 20)

... & don't worry, you'll use the spares at some point


ESC ratings seem a bit backwards (because fewer turns on the motor mean more power) - a 20T limit ESC means you can use 20T motors, or less powerful ones - 23Ts like the Sport Tuned, 27T like the silvercan that comes with most Tamiya kits, 35T, and upwards.

The ESC Dreadly suggested is a sound choice IMO for various reasons - including that it won't matter wether the radio gear you get has BEC (battery eliminator circuitry) on the reciever.


Pinions - Modelsport seem to have two appropriate ones - of the two I'd suggest this one because it's not clear what the other one is made of.


Radio gear ... on Modelsport I'd suggest a basic Acoms combo (reciever & transmitter/handset) - this one & their cheapest servo here ..
Alternatively this & this




Anything else ... if the 2nd car came without radio, you might want to check all the servo saver parts are there like this as they often get lost ... anything else worn/missing/broken you'll have to work out from the manual, for instance the triangular hubs are often broken, so you might need the E sprue (9005866)



I see there have been a couple more posts while I was working that all out