TOPIC:

so what is the ideal setup for our Tamiya's

M2, M3 + M4
inner thread 1, 2 or 3 taps
drill sizes
dies
what kind of toolholders.
cutting fluid

all tipps welcome

maybe its usefull to make a seperate thread for the thread and also include thread repair etc.

thx

waterbok wrote:

so what is the ideal setup for our Tamiya's

M2, M3 + M4
inner thread 1, 2 or 3 taps
drill sizes
dies
what kind of toolholders.
cutting fluid

all tipps welcome

maybe its usefull to make a seperate thread for the thread and also include thread repair etc.

thx

I think you're right in saying M2, M3 and M4 are the most useful sizes for Tamiya cars, I don't think I've used any other sizes on them ... maybe M5. TBH I don't think I've really used them that much for restoration anyway - it's generally only for making custom bits that they get dusted off & used.


I don't know if there is an "ideal" setup, I suppose it would be just getting taps & dies in the sizes you need, nice holders for them, and a fancy toolbox to put them in. Check out www.rdgtools.co...TOOLS.html & scroll down to the tool chest, for example. The advantage that sets have is they have all the bits you need (+ a lot you'll never use on RC) & pack away neatly. I have a M3/M4/M5/M6/M8/M10/M12 HSS set with 1, 2, & 3 taps & a die in each size + holders, folding thread gauge, that was 52 GBP 15 years ago, the only thing I've had to replace was a #3 M$ tap :blush: I also have another set for M1, M1.1, M1.2, M1.4, M1.6, M1.8, M2, M2.2 & M2.5, that has # 2 & 3 taps + dies in each size & a dual function holder.

Something I see in the way of "tips" online is that there are 3 sorts of taps - "taper", "plug" and "bottoming"... that just isn't my experience, which that there are #'s 1, 2 and 3 (#1 I guess is analogous to "taper", #3 is equivalent to a "plug" tap, and #2 somewhere in between) and a "bottoming" tap is something else entirely, and altogether rarer, it's not something you get in a set.

Drill sizes - 1.5mm for M2, 2.5mm for M3, 3.2mm for M4, 4mm for M5 ... those might not be the 100% "correct" sizes, but those sizes are freely available in packs of 10...

Toolholders ... what you get in the set

Cutting fluid ... you don't need anything on styrene & nylon, aluminium I don't tend to use anything, just be very careful to keep the thing free (small turns forwards & backwards) + keep running the taps right out to make sure nothing is getting bunged up ... mild steel I try to avoid it too (swarf is easy to hoover up off the carpet, oil less so ... this explains the broken M4 tap ), but when I do give in it's what's handy - usually 3 in 1 oil but I have used K&N filter oil, fairy liquid ....

Tips ... starting tapping in a lathe of pillar drill (with the power off, just rotate by hand) for just the first couple of turns helps get things straight to start with before relocating it to a bench vice.

Cutting an external thread (with a die) - try to taper the end of the bit to be threaded to help get things started.


The main thing is patience - tapping a thread very slowly is still a lot faster than breaking a tap & having to get a replacement, and, more than likely, having to make a new part to tap.
Turn a short way then Back most of the way - something like 120 degrees forward, 90 back ... depending of material & lubrication it could be 270 forward, 180 back.

Not much I could add there myself.

Eddrick gave me some great tips about whether one should get an adjustable die or not.
The answer was yes - it has a few advantages. I'll see if I can quote some of what he wrote in his mail...

New toys - set of 8/32 UNC taps (so I can make some RC10 body mounts the correct length),plus a bell punch & centre square (for finding centre of round things)

Sorry Jonny but what are your cone and the flight tail?

stingray-63 wrote:

Sorry Jonny but what are your cone and the flight tail?

google

stingray-63 wrote:

Sorry Jonny but what are your cone and the flight tail?

The "flight tail" is a centre square, for making finding the centre of round things (for machining/drilling) much easier (the old fashioned way being to draw a chord across your round thing, measure the line, draw a line at 90 degrees halfway along it, repeat with another chord, where the two 90 degree lines intersect is the centre)... the centre square (being a 90 degree square with another piece at 45 degrees to the two) just takes a couple of steps out - draw two lines & where they cross is the centre).

The "cone" is a bell punch, a different concept, but still for finding centre on round things - a finely machined cone with a sliding punch in the centre with a protruding head for hammering. As long as you have the thing on straight, where the dimple is must be the centre. The fact it's conical means it can accomodate different sizes of round bar.

Ok! very interesting

Just picked these up at a store called Jula,probably my most favourite store in Sweden!
The grand total came to just £23.00.

Hey guys,

Anybody have an idea what countersunk drill size to use to get close to what Mr. T does on FRP chassis and such?
I figured it out last year but don't remember anymore. Just that it was a drag to figure out.
Bookmarked something on eBay but I'm pretty sure it wasn't 8mm by 120 degrees...
Would be great if someone knows!