TOPIC:

Edou wrote:

Jonny, did you feel the need to use all three types or could maybe only the finest two be sufficient if sanded well enough?

Define "sanded well enough" ... I finished with used 1200 grit wet & dry - & that needed a _lot_ of work with the "heavy" polish to get anywhere - ideally I should have gone a lot further with the sanding, next time I'll go 1500/2000/2500 as well...

If I had to lose one it would be the #1 "Shine" Bottle - I think the only effect that had over the #2 was a placebo

Thanks, that'll help to decide what to get exactly.
Apparently #1 mostly works as a final coat then and not such much as a scratch remover :

Amazon wrote:

Leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static

Not bad for shelfers though...

Edit :

Jonny wrote:

Define "sanded well enough"

I was also thinking in the 1200-1500 range...

I'm in a bit of a building mood so thought I'd have a go at this ...






... but stalled very quickly I need a bit of a sanity check here ... This is the GPM alloy motor mount I got for the build / the other side:








I'm sure I've got in right here - countersunk screws have to be used on the motor side so the mount sits flat, and where they emerge on the outside, should be fitted into some threaded doodads, M3 thread all the way through, 5.9mm- o/d, approx. 12.5mm long to fit into the recesses in the gearbox & be screwed through from the outside ... what's got my frontal lobes tying themselves into a knot is the fact they're not there, and the other two screws should also be countersunk so the motor sits flat on the gearbox

Maybe you have eaten the mounts instead of the tictacs laying there
Have a look on your pics. Where they in the package of the mount? I've ordered the same 1-3 months ago. They have same size as tictacs

Btw you have a nice workbench at all your pics, i'm jealous.

Yep there are some bits missing with that gpm mount. That sucks.
Other wise they work just fine. What is also nice that the screws to attach the motor are never included. But hey they come cheap.

I've no idea what/how these cars go together & the same with the GPM lump, so forgive my ignorance, but I would've thought the flat surface of the heatsink should be against what you're trying to cool (The motor) & the finned surface (Cooled surface) should be in contact with the plastic.
I would also have thought that the 2x straight counterbored holes on the flat side are for the pan head screws into the motor & the 12x CSK holes would be for long CSK screws going through the gearbox with nuts the other side to secure the shebang, with adjustment for different pinions.
Basically, the exact opposite of what's in the pic....

What's throwing me though, is how the really-badword are you supposed to put it together? - it appears that 1x set of screwheads are always hidden where you can't get to them?

Fun first version of the futaba ATACK SR. I have a lot of second version the grey, It's a good radio gear.

Nice feel & good looks, just don't open it up & look at the guts or you'll be as disappointed as I was! I always used to swear by Futaba as quality equipment, but the internals of the Attack are the same cheapy generic PCBs as you find in much cheaper radio (Might be some pics in my ThunderDragon resto)

...yes there are, AND I've just noticed it's got the 9362 chip in it, which means can be converted for up to 4 channel operation really easily

Had a mount lying around took some pics and measurements.

the tiktaks are 6x12.1 with M3, installed they come out at about 9.5/9.7mm







Oh, and yes use good threadlock on the screws that hold the tiktaks in place (and maybe something on the tiktaks before stuffing them into the mount base), otherwise they come off when you try to remove the motor out of the gearbox. (