TOPIC:

A wave of guilt flowed over me there at the though I may have affected someone's love of Tamiya engineering.....

If I were to come up with something like that, I'd have the flat face against the motor, for maximum heat transfer to the heatsink, I'd have the fins next to the gearbox for minimum heat transfer to the plastic. I'd also tap the heatsink for the gearbox screws, & use plain spacers instead of tapped ones, so that all of the screw heads are accessible & there's nothing that could "spin" when you try to dismantle it.

What exactly was up with the Orion motor that it wouldn't fit? Strange one that, why design a standard size motor that wouldn't fit a standard mounting?

Yes Edou, Titanium is funny stuff, it behaves a lot like stainless (Stainless fasteners are always comparatively soft), stainless can be hardened but never as much as high carbon steel & I'd guess it's the same story for Titanium, you're kinda stuck with how hard it is out of the box & can't make it suitably harder.
I think the use of titanium is for where RELATIVE strength & lightness is required - it's not as strong as hardened steel, & nowhere near as light as ally, but stronger than ally & lighter than steel.
I'd say anodised ally fasteners would be a better choice for toy cars, (It's plenty strong/hard enough for motorcycle engine casings) but it doesn't have the same "bling" value as titanium

Edou wrote:

Motor mounts are only about $6 at Asiatees so they wouldn't be worth much trouble...
The design is a bit weird indeed. Wonder which one's most effective.
The Tamiya version and also the Yeah Racing one are solid at least.
Reckon all are better than the plastic bit that always breaks.
If you put the GPM together correctly (and received all the pieces), that is.

Nope tamiya's is also screwed together and cost 10x more than the GPM
(but sure looks nice)



btw. on the tamiya one the pins are of differnt length just as the plastic one.

should be possible to make those yourself if you have the tools for it, its just a round alloy ring with a lot of holes, first would have to make a drilling jig get them holes all in the right place.
and maybe weld the pins from the rear, that would save from screws getting loose.

I only meant that the main part was solid (no cooling fins).

I thought I'd given the threadlock more than enough setting time so carried on with the build ... only to get stuck really quickly - I couldn't find the lower wishbones

When I did find them, I realised I'd put them aside for repainting after by abortive attempt and sanding and polishing them - this is what happens when you have too many projects on the go

The last pic looks nearly finished but something missing
Do you want to use an ESC or the original MSC for that one? I'm currently looking for a good ESC for my BF with the 540 Sport Tuned Motor and i don't know which cheap ESC i can use for it, after the problem with the 104 from Tamiya.

This'll be getting a TEU101BK as an NIP one came with the car, otherwise I probably would have gone for an Mtroniks "Sport Tuned 20T Auto" - I've bought them in threes before, working out at 15 GBP each.

Hmmm, what's the difference between 101 & 104? 104 just newer one?
It's cheaper at my trader... I've tried to use it before and had loud problems with the 104. The bleeping, as you remember. I'm still wondering what it was and now i don't want to buy another one from tamiya but the MSC is not the best option at all. I want to use the BEC.
I have the same System as you on the MR. The Futuba Attack-SR with a 540 Sport Tuned and a new 1800er 7.2V Akku from Team Orion.
Maybe the motor has to be cleaned up?

I've never owned/used a 104, but apparently they have a low voltage cutoff for 6.6v "LiFe" batteries, and the current handling specs are 60A forward / 30A reverse, whereas the 101 is 60A each way. I would guess reverse on the 104 is limited to 50% speed too.

The only problems I've had with 101s is them conking out due to getting wet (a rinse out & dry has always fixed them), but I did have one "thermal" due to overgearing (just waited for it to cool down & used a smaller pinion).

Yep I've had 101s stop due to wet, but goobing all the open holes with silicone (Or put it inside a balloon) usually sorts that issue.
I'm currently a fan of that generic chinese ESC that BlackSmithProducts (UK) sell, usually marked HSP. BSD or HPI. Haven't managed to kill one yet, have been ok with most of my high current motors & they're incredibly cheap if you look in the right places

Hmmm, sounds nice. Also higher voltage than 7,2v! But are there brushed motors with higher voltage?
This one is for 20T and above: www.blacksmithp...p?prod=ESC Can i use it with the ~23T 540 SportTuned? Most motors has max cap and not min at turns. Wondering... maybe i'll get a 101 or 104 used at ebay to use it at the BF. It's for fun and i want to use it in the snow - later. :) I aim to misbehave