TOPIC:

stingray-63 wrote:

Wonderfull Jonny. It is like each time, very realistic. The dash is ended?

No, there's lots more to do - a Land Rover doesn't have much in the way of features, but what's there is all exposed - vent adjusters, wiper motors, heater ducting etc

I reaaly seriously thought about getting a Kamtec vacformed shell instead of bulilding my own...

Noooo!, no, no, no, and no!

Jonny wrote:

I reaaly seriously thought about getting a Kamtec vacformed shell instead of bulilding my own...

No, no no Jonny. The kamtec looks like a toy badly overmoulded. Yours is a piece of art. Keep your disco.

Well obviously I wouldn't have left it stock, I just thought it might have been an easy way to get the hip, roof & bonnet curves ... ultimately though, I'm not really building a 1:10 Land Rover here, it's a 3.2:1 version of the Britains diecast

I'm impressed. You make your own bodies just like that? Are they durable?

uncletom wrote:

I'm impressed. You make your own bodies just like that? Are they durable?

If you mean that blue Defender in the eBay link, then no, that's not mine ... but if you mean the back 2/3rds of the RV, the Unimog, Bedford skip truck, Valp, CMP truck or the Land Rover that been slowly taking shape in this thread then yes - although I don't think I'd say there were "just like that"

Define "durable", I think most structural parts of most of these builds would take being stood on by at least one person, provided they loaded them up gently. Jumping on them would pretty much destroy them though. At "scale" speeds (45T motor/7.2v Nimh or 2s lipo) on soft surfaces a rollover isn't going to harm them, nor is hitting something solid, at least not structurally. Hitting something hard on while driving on tarmac with a 23T motor though, that's very likely to open one up on at least one seam - but then as most have a "workhorse" finish, they can be glued up & any exposed white plastic touched up with "rust" coloured paint. So not quite as tough as an injection moulded body, but much easier to repair to original finish.

It's not as if Lexan is ideal either, that might take a minor knock by deforming, but it tends to start looking chewed up, it splits around holes or starting at sharp points on edges, paint cracks & flakes away from the surface ... and then you get shells that turn out to be PET, usually only found out when they break the first time you hit something, for instance I had a GT40 shell that shattered most of one front corner off the first time I used a bit of a very gently angled kerb

TL;DR - they have pros and cons but are on a par with most official type bodies

Interior finished & roof (to match the 1:32 version, not the 1:1) on

Fantastic Jonny. Wich color for its dress? A classic british green (washed) or a layete used grey blue? With the sheep in the bed.

The detail is simply amazing !!!!!
Fantastic work, I just love it.