TOPIC:

stingray-63 wrote:

Ah ok. And with a tube? To limit the noise or an exaust pipe?

There is already a few solutions like this on Printables, I'll look into this... later...

It will be soon time for multi color stuff... I launched the print of a badword box (yes, this machine poops ) before I start the color stuff...
And since there is still some green but not enough for the badword box, I took the silver  silk PLA+ I used for the Samurai rims... And there is a logo on the box, so I colored it in green... It's a long print (Silk PLA+ is requiring slower speed than PLA), and the color will add some time for the filament changes.
In the meantime I took a picture of the first layer (it's not because I'm good at setting it, it's fully managed by the printer):

And I managed to add a micro SD card to the printer so I can get some timelapse of the prints...

While this print, I decided to preassemble the enclosure of theh Ender 5 Plus.

It will go in the corner where the X1C seats currently. The plexiglass will participate to reinforce it (currently the top is able to move in all direction), but I'll reinforce it further to make sure the X1C can sit on top of it (currently I don't think this would be possible)...
 

Once, I need also to buy a 3D printer... but currently, I wouldn't have time for it. So I wait, till I have some. Till then, you get better printers for lower prices. Last time, I thought Prusa is one of the best printers. But it seems that there i now a better one.

When I find time and plan to buy one, I have to ask you for an update

The color option is nice, but it takes time...

The print took actually 3 times what it would have taken without colours, just because the color changes. I had to see if this works properly. and it is... I have a timelapse of it (that's a cool feature, and some said that it could be usefull when a print fails to understand exactly what happened).


And here is the print with the wastes



The purge tower could have been replaced by a random object, and at the end, any other multimaterial solution with a single head would have led to the same type of waste. I paid attention to what it did with two colors, to minimise the number of changes, it actually prints two layers and then changes material and print two layers... I guess that doesn't work that way for the layers where you need 3 materials. I'll have to find out one day or another...

As there is a storm with some thunder tonight and I already got a few power hiccups tonight, it is really not the time to launch a print, except if the target is to test the power loss recovery feature (but maybe if I target this, it won't cut power )... In short, no prints tonight.

In the meantime, i'm looking to find the right way to approach resin printing... I have two resin types here:
- Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like Navy Grey
- Resione F80 flexible

Both resins have defined profiles for the Anycubic Photon M3, and that was part of my criterias when ordering the resins, just because I did not want to have to search too much about the profiles to set myself as a beginner in the matter... Both resins arrived, and the printer as well. I checked the resins information, and it precises an ideal temp of 25°C... Basically, it never happens here inside, because we keep the home cool during the summer, and we target about 19°C inside during the winter. That is the first issue. I identify some tools that can heat the resin printer chamber for a cost of about 85€ but I won't do that now... I can always put the resin bottle in the enclosure of teh E5P, set the bed at 25°C and use that as a way to heat the resin before printing, that may eventually work . 

That being said, I've searched for other ways to approach the thing and discussed on a french forum dedicated to 3D Printing about this, and came to know about a RERF feature that exists natively in any Anycubic resin printer. RERF stands for Resin Exposure Range FInder... It's actually a nice feature to help you understand the better exposure timing for the resin you use, and some of the guys are telling me they use this to assess at the real temperature they are going to print...

(I find really dumb this is not even in the printer manual, and only present in the pdf from the firmware update, while the RERF file is on the USB key, which means the firmware was applied already...). 
And you can apparently change the default setting of the file when you launch a print and pause it...
In short, that may help a lot

While reading on THE INTERNET, found out something that somehow I knew already : 3D printing is the future of this hobby
www.redrc.net/2...ore-210177

Future of the vintage skate board style chassis 

Few test prints again, as I want to have some clear understanding of the limit of this printer...


Overhangs are good up to 20° and degrade (but still work) at 15°.
No stringing, no tolerance issue at 0.2. I need to check tolerances at .1mm
Bridges : it's perfect for the bridge test, but less for the top part which is shorter... I may need further analysis here...
All texts are good, but there is a bit of ringing... I did not run the calibration after powering it up this morning, so it might be the cause. 

I did not print the calibration cube before, as all the measurements seemed fine for the parts I printed... But I wanted to check this before any rc car parts.
20x20x20. With an analogic caliper, this exactly what I have. With a digital caliper, it's about .01 deviation, which could be very well measurement issue...

Overall very good, and we could gain a little bit on bridges and overhangs with lower layer height, so it's good, specially considering the printer is fast.

Plexiglass sheets were ordered yesterday... By grouping the order with my friends doing an enclosure for their prusa i3, we managed to slash the cost substantially...

In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out how to deal with a part of my use cases...

I'm idiot but what are the grey parts?