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Yeahh I love it jim

A bit of work today... The red Galaxy was unbuilt, parts were cleaned, and chassis is going for a repair. I swapped the chassis to rebuilt it as all the other parts where in perfect state. It is now in the same state as the Galaxy RS. Rest will be parallel builds

Nice vehicles guys!
Leds is fun indeed.


Today I swapped out the old Technigold motor of my Lunchbox and fitted a old Reedy of unknow spec and soldered new wires to it.
Performance was about the same as the Thechnigold, maybe a tad slower, like 5% and with less torque at the bottom.
This time it did not stop at all, and I still managed to drive 15-10min from the charge left over from last weekend.
So in total I drove for about 40min flat out.

As I suspected the brushes on the old Technigold is too worn down now.
If any happens to have new Technigold brushes, let me know.

My Lunchbox was no longer popping wheelies, and this since I put the oil dampers... I made a relation between the friction shocks and the wheelies, as in similar condition, my kids' lunchbox were popping wheelies with their Lunchbox...

And I recently noticed that the tires were slipping on the rims... They did not while using the friction shocks. I just made a quick try with my wheels with the my son's Lunchbox with friction shocks, and it was still popping wheelies...

Conclusion : oil dampers really improve the way the tires are sticky to the running surface, and therefore gluing the tires is absolutely required while running a Lunchbox with oil shocks...

Tires were glued yesterday. I did a quick try this morning. The difference is huge: wheelies are now back (nb: I tried with rubber bands, and it s not as efficient, first you need the right size of rubber band (too small and it will break, to big and you have to do two rounds, and then the tires don't position properly))

 

Yep I recomend gluing all tires for all vehicles that are running.
Rubber band tric has never worked for me.

For those that do not want to glue their tires, there is beadlock tires which basicly is the same as Hornet wheels as those clamps the tire to the rim.
Beadlock wheels can be found in 1.55", 1.7", 1.9" and 2.2" variants, mostly used on crawlers, or scalers as they really is if they are not hardcore rockcrawlers.
Just notice because of the design, it may not clear hubs or other parts like the factory part.
But there is several styles of clamping metod on beadlock wheels.
Manufactures like Axial, RC4WD, Boom Racing, Locked Up, Team KNK, Vanquish and many more do make beadlock wheels.
The current leader right now is Boom Racing which has plenty of different ones that can be custum built by order seperat parts.
You find them on FB where they announce news regularly, many times weekly.

On my re-re Lunchbox I have studded tires which I did by screwing screws from the inside and that tire is held in place by a 2.2" Axial beadlock.
That has now lasted 4-5 years without any sign of giving up.

Much the same as full size drag cars......

The softer friction shocks soak up some of the initial torque and allow the rear to squat, which in turn shifts weight to the rear, helping the tyres grip and get the front wheels up.

The stiffer oil dampers will be reducing rear squat/weight transfer, but at same time transferring more torque to the wheels, which in turn would normally lead to more wheel spin.  But in this case, the wheel is spinning in the tyre.  Gluing the tyres now puts all the torque through to the ground, and (assuming there's enough grip) wheelies again 
 

Plugging in battery, without turning on controller, results in.......   Skids!!!!

 

well today im new here I was test fitting the dummy motor to my Tamiya Sand Scorcher

Welcome here, but maybe you should start by introduce yourself in a post in the relevant section

Looks great