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Do you mean how hard to find the decals? They do pop up on eBay, very pricey though. I think there are some up for 80+ right now. |
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This info on the tub is very useful, thanks for the pic Alan.
So I will hunt one of those down or go for the one I have as default. But I know I will sell on the one I got in the GT2 kit. The next one I'd like to get to the bottom of is original tyres, I have the GT2 ones pictures below and some 53228 "super slicks" rear (wide) from their box. Does anyone know if the originals were marked up super slick or just have the 8 digit part number on them? To feel both the super slicks are just a bit softer. Looking at the manual it seems that the standard ones are exactly the same as the GT2 and the super slicks are hop up? |
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Last edit: by Purple_rob.
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On my clarion, they are classic gums. Super slicks are very soft. There are originally super slicks on rear of the m02 fiat 1000tcr and on the ta02rs.
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Original rear tyres are the same 50547 as the 84399/47321 white GT2.
An original Taisan body has "Made in Japan" stamped on the base. The re-re body has "58172 1" instead of just "58172". The actual moulding is identical. Indecently, the body set was re-released twice before the 84399 white GT2. The first time as a Japan only Modeller Gallery show special, I'm not sure on the year. The stickers were sold separately. It came with both the black Taisan wing and the lower white PIAA version: Then as a globally available but still limited edition in 2011, again with no stickers The stickers don't have a part number like the body, and no English text so they may have been Japan only again. It's easy to tell if you have one of these bodies without the packaging, as they have no drilled post holes. |
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Thanks for the info, interesting on the release timings, wonder if theyll go around again. I have the one out the 47321 and an original with "made in Japan". The new kit one is on ebay as surplus and i'll paint up the original.
I actually started building up the front and back yesterday, first staged of the manual. I am using the Taisan manual and have found no discrepancies so far. |
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That I cannot comment on..... yet.... |
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They are very time consuming to apply, tho some of that was down to the fact that I cut out individual stuff rather then apply like the manual says in blocks with a lot of clear decal between, but that’s just me being my badword self, I used the dip in soapy water method and once in position a low heat gun(hair dryer is maybe more appropriate tbh) to aid the stretching/manipulation of some when required, make sure you don’t get too much heat on clear parts of the decal as you can end up with a bubble effect underneath the clear sections as I unfortunately found out, luckily it can only be seen in certain light phew The hardest parts I think are the red parts over the rear arches where plenty of heat was required to almost shrink them at the arch edges, tho as I found out if you are to rough you can take some of the colour off the decal All in all it turned out ok |
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Some great info there Adrian, good input sir |
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