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Index
Re-release Bruiser page 1: Re-re Bruiser kit arrived, starting build (frame rails) page 2: build (rest of chassis) page 3: body prep page 4: modifying Sand Rover driver, starting on paint page 5: more paint page 6: more paint page 7: LEDs page8: Decals, test run page 9: minor repairs. HG P407 #1 (blue, modified) page 9: kit arrived page 10: working on DIY decals page 11: OTS light kit fail (again), 12mm hex hub conversion, wheels page 12: more work on decals page 13: diff locking, chassis build page 14: body mods, chassis build continues page 15: chassis build continues page 16: paint HG P407 #2 (red, Mountain Rider clone) page 16: kit arrived, paint page 17: paint continued, chassis build SMART PHONE WARNING - VERY OLD THREAD ALERT - go to page 9 for the new stuff Well, it's arrived TBH I still haven't worked out how I'm going to pay for it, at the moment it's being covered by an advanced accounting technique that I like to call _an overdraft_ I have done some fiddling with a Planet T5 TX (basically dismantling the left stick & rebuilding it 90 degrees out & with a homemade shift gate so the new up/down is sprung for the throttle & the left/right is lightly ratcheted for the gears. The light unit I bought doesn't work with this TX (only 2-channel 27mhz sets as far as I can see), so I can use this TX & have the gearchange, but only a simple on/off for the lights, or I can have full function lights but no gears ... I think the gears win |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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I'm looking forward to follow this build!
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Where's the walrus? Sorry Jonny, I was jealous when you said you were getting one of these, but I'm really disappointed with the lack of bits you get for your money - I'd say there was 3x that for the highlift I paid 150gbp for (Pic's rubbish again, I know). I must say though, I shall, like Edou & Lars, follow this with considerable interest! Regarding that light kit, if you want to email me some pics, circuit diagram, destructions etc, I'll have a look at it & see if there's a way around using it with the new radio (eddrick@planet357.fsnet.co.uk)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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I've been thinking about the essential pointlessness of the walrus brush Tamiya saw fit to include in the Bruiser kit ... I still can't think of anything it'll do better than a cheap toothbrush or washing up brush will do.
Previously, "bonus" items I think have just been bearings ... not enough to fully ballrace the car mind you - but at least they have some use. I would have thought a screwdriver or a decent hex driver instead of the Allen keys would have been much more impressive & useful. I guess I'll be putting the brush in the box & leaving in the loft for 25 years on the offchance it gains some value, or at least it's presence will make the potential sale of a "boxed, barely used" Bruiser slightly more attractive |
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Enough odobenine shenanigans, on with the build:
Manual page 4, steps 1 & 2 - threadlocking & hanging a few bits off the chassis rails: Page 4, steps 3 - 5: hanging more bits of the chassis & starting on the axles: Page 6, steps 6 & 7: more the rear axle: Page 7, steps 8 & 9: more on the front axle ... part way through I realised I'd left half the gears out of the diffs so had to go back ... just as well really, even locking the rear diff would have meant only one wheel drive ,,, |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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Page 8, step 10 - fitting leaf springs.
This really ought to be three steps - a total of 62 parts + the axles need juggling here I found getting it all together a bit tricky, so I just did one "corner" at a time, then went back & undid one nut at a time to apply the threadlock. No idea why the "inside" M3 nuts are plain rather than flanged. edit - note the cute little M2 locknuts & spanner - "Aah! Diddums!" One for eddrick - note the weak spot Page 9, steps 11 & 12 - fitting axles. I had to undo all sixteen U-bolt nuts again to get the axle postion right - it's not clear in the manual in the preceeding steps, & there's no mark to line them up I don't know why, but this type of instruction never fills me with confidence |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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I was just looking at how far I'd got ... it's nice to have so much metal on a kit, but with all the different colour bits & all the nuts & bolts, it really looks like ... well, Meccano
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